5.9, Trad
Yosemite Valley
California ,United States
"Filthy Rich climbs the left pillar of Cascade Falls with two pitches of engaging trad climbing, featuring dynamic crack jams, a challenging offwidth, and a roofed second pitch. This route balances technical skills with bold exposure in one of Yosemite’s quieter climbing corners."
At the far left edge of the towering Cascade Falls, a distinct rock pillar rises sharply against the sky, inviting climbers to test their skills on its rugged face. Filthy Rich tackles the left flank of this striking formation, offering two pitches of sustained trad climbing that blend technical crack work with strategic stemming and a touch of exposed scrambling. The route begins with a scramble to reach the double cracks that ascend a narrow corner. Here, fingers and hands find refuge in jams, but the climb soon demands moving left into an offwidth section—a challenging groove where you’ll rely on stemming against knobby holds to keep momentum and avoid being swallowed by the wide crack. The first pitch culminates on a small ledge with solid nut placements and a crux lieback on a flake, rewarding climbers with a brief breather and a secure belay spot.
Pitch two shifts focus to roofed terrain where skillful underclings and liebacks are necessary to navigate the bulging obstacle. Ample protection slots await, but the climbing requires careful body positioning as you work around a dirty groove fringed by stubborn vegetation. Beyond the roof, the terrain loosens into looser, dirtier fourth-class scrambling before reaching the top at a tree outfitted with rap slings. Descent follows the Golden Needles rappel, a straightforward but essential rappel that demands a 60 or 70 meter rope for a safe exit.
The approach to Filthy Rich places you deep within the dramatic Lower Merced River Canyon of Yosemite National Park. Accessing this left end of Cascade Falls means a rugged hike through mixed terrain, offering glimpses of the river's restless current daring you forward. The rock itself is a firm granite, inviting secure placements but demanding vigilance especially where loose rock or dirt accumulate near the summit. Protection ranges from small nuts for the crux flare ups to cams up to six inches for the offwidth and roof sections, making a well-rounded trad rack essential.
Filthy Rich offers intermediate climbers an accessible yet engaging test of crack and face climbing skills. It rewards thoughtful gear management and confident movement on exposed sections without venturing into extreme technical territory. With only a handful of ascents logged, it remains a quieter option among the more popular big wall climbs in Yosemite but those who come find a quiet slice of vertical adventure set against the roar of Cascade Falls below.
Optimally climbed in cooler months or early mornings to beat the sun, the route faces west, catching afternoon shade that softens the heat. Wear sturdy shoes with solid edging and bring plenty of water for the approach hike, which features uneven terrain and some brushy sections. Safety is key here: while the granite is generally solid, loose dirt near the summit and the variable quality of protection placements require cautious climbing and commitment to good gear protocol.
Whether you’re stepping up from easier trad climbs or seeking a short but memorable multi-pitch adventure in Yosemite Valley’s quieter corners, Filthy Rich offers a hands-on experience with classic granite cracks, bold stemming moves, and a touch of wilderness solitude. Plan accordingly, position your protection wisely, and relish the feel of solid rock beneath your hands and the steady pulse of the river far below as you climb.
Loose dirt and debris accumulate near the summit, creating slippery spots on the final moves and around the belay tree. Protection placements near the offwidth require care—some cams may be tricky to place securely; always test gear before weighting. The descent rappel via Golden Needles calls for thorough rope management and caution.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and avoid afternoon sun on the west-facing wall.
Use a 60 or 70 meter rope for the rappel via Golden Needles descent.
Watch for loose dirt and rock near the top pitch—secure all gear placements carefully.
Wear durable climbing shoes with good edging for crack jams and stemming moves.
Bring a full rack to 3 inches, including a 6-inch cam for the offwidth section. Nut placements are solid early on, with good gear opportunities below and around the roof on pitch two.
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