"Fille du Roi delivers a classic single-pitch climb that tests hand jam technique with a welcoming blend of crack and big holds. Ideal for trad climbers looking for a short, varied route with simple approach and solid natural anchors."
Fille du Roi offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging trad experience in the heart of Quebec's Laurentians. This single-pitch route, stretching about 50 feet, presents a blend of climbing elements that make it approachable for newcomers while still rewarding more seasoned climbers. The route starts with a direct crack section where careful hand jamming becomes essential—an unexpectedly technical move for a 5.4 pitch that tests your basic skills and confidence. For those looking to avoid the initial crack, a slight variation around the left side offers an alternative line, making the climb adaptable to different styles and comfort zones.
The rock here is solid and inviting, with generous holds that contrast nicely against the smaller crack features that pepper the route. A large ledge near the top provides room to rest and set up anchors, although no bolts are installed at present; instead, a prominent tree offers a reliable natural anchor. Exiting the climb is hassle-free, with a brief walk-off path to the left that allows for a smooth transition back to the base.
The setting adds to the experience — the climb sits within a less-traveled area of Montagne d’Argent, surrounded by quiet forest and open pockets of sky, creating a peaceful backdrop that lets you focus entirely on the movements. The approach is short and manageable, suitable for a midday push or an afternoon outing when the sun casts a warm glow on the granite face. With a standard trad rack in hand, climbers will find the protection opportunities straightforward—no tricky placements, just solid gear placements that demand good judgement.
Whether you're upping your trad game or seeking a reliable line to share with a climbing partner, Fille du Roi strikes a balance between technical engagement and easy accessibility. The route’s modest rating shouldn't fool you; the initial crack holds enough challenge to keep your fingers and mind busy, while the overall pitch flows in a way that charms newcomers and refresher climbers alike. Prepare to move deliberately, keep your gear handy, and savor the quiet wilderness vibe unique to this corner of the Laurentians.
No bolted anchor exists at present; rely on a natural anchor formed around a tree on a spacious ledge. Double-check gear placements on the crack start for security. The easy walk-off trail is best known from the left side of the ledge—avoid scrambling down steep or unstable slopes.
Hand jam technique is key—practice crack moves before attempting the direct start.
Check gear placements carefully; choose protection sizes that fit the crack dimensions optimally.
Use the walk-off trail to the left for a safe and quick descent after the climb.
Arrive during mid-morning or early afternoon for optimal sun exposure on the face.
Fille du Roi requires a standard trad rack with a focus on smaller cams for the initial crack section and some midsize gear for the ledge area. No fixed hardware is present at the anchor, so bring slings and cordelette for building a solid natural anchor around the tree on the large ledge.
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