Figment Trad Climb in Yosemite's Lower Merced River Canyon

Yosemite Village, California United States
crack climbing
granite
single pitch
bushwhacking approach
toprope potential
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Figment
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Figment offers a hands-on 85-foot trad climb in Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon, weaving through cracks and ledges with a touch of bushwhacking on the approach. A solid 5.8 challenge that blends approachable granite crack climbing with quiet canyon solitude."

Figment Trad Climb in Yosemite's Lower Merced River Canyon

Figment offers a straightforward yet captivating trad climb set in one of Yosemite's less traveled corners, the Lower Merced River Canyon. Just a short trek from the prominent climbing nodes, this 85-foot, single-pitch route presents a rugged ascent through crack systems framed by ledges and overgrowth. The climb starts just to the right of the well-known Cereal Killer and demands a hands-on, adventurous spirit as you navigate the occasional bushwhack.

The rock here offers solid holds, with cracks ranging up to 3 inches, making gear placements straightforward but requiring a confident, attentive leader. Figment's 5.8 rating is approachable yet engaging, a perfect challenge for those getting familiar with Yosemite's iconic granite trad climbs or looking for a refreshing variation away from the busier walls. The terrain shifts between crack fingers and hand jams, occasionally interrupted by ledges that offer brief resting spots and a chance to absorb the quiet of the canyon.

Surrounding the climb, the Lower Merced River murmurs softly, its flow a constant companion urging progression upward. The canyon walls catch the afternoon sun, highlighting the textures and shades of the rock’s surface. Cooler morning starts help soften the heat here, while late afternoon shade can offer reprieve on warmer days.

Access involves a modest approach that includes some uneven ground and light bushwhacking, so sturdy boots and prepared legs are essential. Standard Yosemite trad gear—cams up to 3 inches complemented by doubles in smaller sizes—will secure you through the more tricky placements. Bringing along slings for extending anchors around the ledges is a smart move, as the natural features serve both as protection and resting points.

Once on top, climbers enjoy a small quiet summit area, ideal for resetting or fixing topropes for less experienced party members. The rappel or walk-off descent involves careful attention, primarily to avoid loose rock and ensure safe footing on the narrow ridge leading back to the main hiking path.

Figment is a worthy entry for trad climbers seeking an authentic Yosemite experience without the crowds. It balances the thrill of crack climbing, the satisfaction of solid protection, and the rustic charm of a less manicured approach. This route invites you to engage both mind and muscle, providing a clear route through granite that is rewarding for seasoned climbers and encouraging for those expanding their trad repertoire.

Climber Safety

Expect some loose vegetation on the approach and near ledges on the climb. Stay alert to rock quality around resting spots, and watch your footing on the descent ridge where loose scree can cause slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy cooler rock conditions.

Wear sturdy boots for the uneven, brush-filled approach to the climb.

Double-check gear placements on ledges as some pro spots require precise fitting.

Bring extra slings for extending anchors and managing rope drag.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Figment offers a manageable but not trivial climb with a crux that tests crack technique without pushing extremes. The grade feels true to Yosemite’s style—challenging for newer crack climbers yet rewarding for regular trad followers. Compared to neighboring routes like Cereal Killer, Figment is slightly softer but demands consistent footwork and gear management.

Gear Requirements

Standard Yosemite trad gear is suitable here—cams to 3 inches with doubles to 2 inches cover the protections well. Slings help extend gear placements around ledges, supporting safer rests and anchor construction.

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Tags

crack climbing
granite
single pitch
bushwhacking approach
toprope potential