For climbers seeking a distinctive escape from the crowded classics at The Book on Lumpy Ridge, Fender offers a compelling alternative with moderate challenge and rewarding exposure. This two-pitch 5.8 trad route stretches roughly 400 feet through intricate climbing over mixed terrain, demanding both careful gear placement and a sense of route-finding. The approach sets you near the start of Femp, a familiar landmark that anchors your pathway to the line.

Pitch one begins by ascending and scrambling up to the right of Femp, navigating two broad ledges cloaked in brush where protection is placed judiciously. The climb hugs a prominent left-facing corner as you confront the headwall: two flared, parallel cracks invite steady movement, punctuated by stemming and utilizing small chickenheads. This section calls for patience and precise hand positioning, rewarding you with a small ledge just beyond the wall’s steepest angle.

Pitch two meanders along a wide crack that trends right before swinging left about 40 feet above the belay. As the crack narrows, the route presents a choice of exit, steering upward past a perched block without following Femp’s path. The final moves involve delicate thin hands and finger cracks that lead to the broad east shoulder of The Book. Here, a short traverse to the right transfers you into a large left-facing corner, before a relaxed walk north on a ledge reveals secure belay stations.

Protection is best concentrated in a standard Lumpy Rack with expanded coverage in the #1 to #3 Camalot range. While a single #3 is manageable, carrying an additional #3 or a #4 Camalot is advisable for the wider cracks encountered, helping to safeguard tricky sections and reduce drag with generously long slings. A 70-meter rope is required to negotiate the length safely. Be aware that the second belay demands some effort to establish if you choose not to rely on the small tree situated about 30 feet behind the edge.

This route’s solitude and unpretentious character provide a refreshing climb away from busier lines, but it invites respect for its sporadic brush, variable protection opportunities, and the technical demands of chimneying and stemming. The rock often feels solid, though the brushy ledges introduce an element of unpredictability that rewards climbers with clear route reading and steady footwork.

Positioned in Estes Park Valley, Colorado, Fender hangs on the face of Lumpy Ridge, offering extended views of the valley floor as you gain height. The route’s orientation means it captures morning sun while providing afternoon shade, making spring through early fall the optimal climbing window. The approach trail to Femp is relatively manageable but expect some off-trail scrambling with minimal established paths.

Descent is typically made on foot by walking north off the ledge towards established trails, but be prepared for uneven terrain and occasional loose rock. Given that rappelling options require careful setup, many climbers favor the walk-off for its straightforward nature.

Fender is ideal for climbers comfortable with gear placement in crack systems, who embrace a semi-adventurous route where route-finding and moderate off-route scrambling shape the experience. This climb demands focused strategy as much as physical ability, blending straightforward techniques with perfect timing and steady confidence. Whether you’re escaping peak crowds or adding a mid-grade trad route to your portfolio, Fender offers a satisfying outing with genuine character within the stunning contours of Lumpy Ridge.