"Short and straightforward, Feliz Año Nuevo is a 35-foot trad climb carved into a quiet corner system beneath a weathered oak tree. Perfect for honing crack climbing skills in Central Mexico’s dry forest setting, this route balances solid protection with a moderate 5.9- challenge."
Feliz Año Nuevo offers a focused slice of trad climbing that invites you to engage with Central Mexico's rugged cliffs without requiring a full-day commitment. This brief, single-pitch route extends just 35 feet but packs a powerful punch through its clean corner system and natural crack lines. Starting a short walk left of the distinctive "Red Tree" descent landmark—now reduced to a weathered grey stump—the climb begins on a ledge about six feet off the ground, tucked just behind a sturdy oak tree. From here, the climb demands careful footwork and steady hand jams as you ascend the obvious corner, which is framed by two parallel crack sets that provide key protection and movement opportunities.
Feliz Año Nuevo’s charm lies in its pocket-sized adventure: it’s a route that blends the approachable with just enough challenge for a trad climber seeking to sharpen crack technique or warm up before more sustained efforts nearby. The 5.9- rating signals a comfortable yet engaging step up from beginner cracks, with a clear crux in the early moves that calls for focused body positioning. Because the route lives just to the right of the more technical bolted sport climb Próspero Año Nuevo (5.10), it serves as a perfect companion climb for those looking to balance gear placements with bolted precision.
Gear-wise, expect to rack up with finger- to hand-sized cams as these fit securely in the natural crack system that threads through the climb. Protection is straightforward but precise—this isn’t a runout, but it does reward clean placements over powdery smears or loose holds. The top anchor sits on a small ledge near the cliff’s summit, safe and well-established to rappel or lower with a single rope, streamlining your exit and setting the stage for a quick turnaround.
The location itself is tucked within the Ñaca-Ñaca area near Aculco, a region marked by dry oak forests and sun-warmed limestone that beckons climbers to a landscape of contrast: the rough bark of trees, the sun’s warmth on rock faces, and the occasional call of birds echoing across the canyon. Access is straightforward—park nearby and hike just a few minutes to the base, where subtle trails wind underfoot and lead directly to the cliff’s start point.
For climbers prepping for Feliz Año Nuevo, timing your visit during the cooler months avoids the midday heat common to Central Mexico’s plateau environment. Mornings bring softer shadows and pleasant temperatures, making early starts advisable. Water and sturdy climbing shoes with marginally stiff soles will enhance grip and comfort on the edge.
Feliz Año Nuevo captures the thrill of trad climbing in a concentrated, approachable package. Whether you’re building crack skills or seeking a well-protected route that stitches natural features into a short but rewarding ascent, this climb delivers both instruction and atmosphere without overextending your day.
Rock quality is solid but watch for loose debris near the approach ledge; the oak tree at the start provides some shelter but remains exposed to sun and wind. Ensure your placements are well seated as the crack narrows in places.
Start early in the day to avoid Central Mexico’s midday heat.
Wear climbing shoes with moderately stiff soles for better crack grip.
Bring cams sized for finger to hand cracks; placement precision matters here.
Approach via the trail left of the "Red Tree" stump for the easiest access to the base.
The climb requires a rack featuring finger to hand sized cams to protect the corner cracks effectively. A solid anchor is set on a ledge near the top for easy rappel or lowering on a single rope.
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