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Fear of a Black Planet

Bishop, California United States
black dihedral
polished slab
technical face
sport route
Owens River Gorge
short approach
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fear of a Black Planet
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This swift 90-foot sport climb on the glossy black dihedral of Negress Wall demands precise footwork and balance. A perfect route for climbers focused on technical face climbing in Owens River Gorge’s dramatic terrain."

Fear of a Black Planet

Fear of a Black Planet challenges climbers with a swift, technical ascent on the left edge of a sleek, black dihedral slab that shapes the imposing Negress Wall. The route demands precise footwork and controlled movements as you push past the initial ledge 20 feet up, then launch onto the open face where a confident stem keeps you balanced against the smooth rock. A subtle but crucial traverse to the right follows, testing your ability to read the line and manage weight shifts before the final stretch leads you through a set of well-spaced bolts to the anchor. The polished surface underfoot reflects the sun’s harsh light, making timing and focused attention key factors. Expect about 90 feet of climbing that blends sustained technical skill with moments to catch your breath on small holds and ledges.

Located within the heart of Owens River Gorge, this sport climb also offers the broader experience of Sierra Eastside’s rugged terrain. The approach is straightforward but demands a moderate hike along uneven, loose rock trails. The landscape opens with granite walls that stand sentinel around the river gorge below, their sheer faces contrasting the soft rustle of nearby pines and the crisp desert air. Being a one-pitch route, it’s an excellent choice to sharpen your 5.10a skills without committing to a prolonged climb, making it perfect for climbers aiming to push their limits on technical face climbing.

Protection consists entirely of bolts, so you can focus on movement without carrying extra gear. However, the delicate foot placements and slick rock demand solid climbing shoes with sticky rubber. Carry enough water and plan your ascent during cooler parts of the day to avoid the sun-baked rock and possible heat exhaustion. The anchor setup is reliable, facilitating safe top rope or lead rappelling. While the climb itself sits in a well-trafficked area, it retains a raw, authentic vibe that makes each ascent feel like a personal test against the stone.

For those planning to visit, morning approaches offer shade and cooler temperatures, while afternoon climbs tend to heat the rock considerably. Seasonal winds racing down the gorge remind you of the wild nature beyond the polished rock surfaces. Whether you're tightening up on face technique or hunting for a sharp 5.10a challenge, Fear of a Black Planet delivers a precise, rewarding experience etched into the dramatic Owens River Gorge.

Climber Safety

Watch for slick, polished rock surfaces especially around the traverse; maintain three points of contact and double-check bolt integrity. The ledge 20 feet up offers a stable resting point but don’t linger too long in the sun. The approach trails can be loose—mind your footing.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday sun heating the polished rock.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for secure footholds on slick slabs.

Bring plenty of water, as the approach offers little shade.

Check wind conditions—gusts can be strong and affect balance on exposed sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, the climb sits firmly in the moderately challenging range for sport routes here; while it doesn’t overreach, the smooth rock and precise moves create a crux that demands clean technique rather than sheer power. It’s comparable to other Owens River Gorge climbs of similar grade but feels slightly stiffer due to the polished surface.

Gear Requirements

Fully bolted route offering straightforward protection; no need to carry traditional gear, just sport quickdraws and a reliable helmet.

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Tags

black dihedral
polished slab
technical face
sport route
Owens River Gorge
short approach