HomeClimbingFear is the Dark Side

Fear is the Dark Side

Nordegg, Alberta Canada
bolted
exposed
technical slab
airy corner
single pitch
shaded wall
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Fear is the Dark Side
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fear is the Dark Side challenges climbers with an initial slab that evolves into steep, exposed face climbing crowned by an airy corner. A standout single pitch in Alberta’s Dark Side, it pairs technique with thrilling exposure."

Fear is the Dark Side

Fear is the Dark Side begins with a deceptively modest slab that tests your balance and footwork before the route tilts into a sharper, more demanding climb. As the rock steepens, you find yourself moving into an airy corner that widens your view and heightens your senses—a natural spotlight where exposure lends a thrilling edge but demands steady nerves. This single 60-foot pitch offers a continuous challenge, blending technical face climbing with careful positional moves that reward focus and composure. The bolts are well spaced and reliable, providing secure protection as you work through the 5.10d crux sequences. Situated within The Dark Side cliff near Nordegg, Alberta, this route sits in an environment that feels both rugged and accessible, with cool northern exposure that keeps the wall pleasantly shaded for much of the day. Whether you're tuning your sport climbing skills or seeking a solid test of your endurance and headspace, Fear is the Dark Side stands out as an experience firmly anchored in practical challenge and natural beauty. Prepare with sticky rubber shoes for the slab and the steep sections, bring quickdraws for the fixed bolts, and watch for the changing light as the afternoon shifts. The approach is straightforward, with a short, forested trail leading to a base surrounded by towering pines and the faint whisper of mountain winds. This climb offers a distinct blend of mental grit and physical finesse, making it a must-try on Alberta’s sport climbing map.

Climber Safety

Exposure becomes a key factor in the airy corner section—take care to keep clipped and maintain controlled movements as a slip here could put you far off the wall. The rock is generally solid but constant focus on footing is essential.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start with a calm mind—the slab section demands precise foot placements and control.

Bring a moderate rack of quickdraws; the bolt spacing requires trusting your gear but staying clipped.

Plan your climb for morning or early afternoon to benefit from comfortable shade.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for the initial slab and transition to steeper sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, this climb offers a crisp technical crux that demands precise body positioning and confident movement. The rating feels true to the challenge, with the exposure in the airy corner subtly elevating the effort. Compared to other sport routes in the area, it sits squarely in the intermediate advanced range, pushing climbers comfortable with steep sport climbing but inviting those looking to sharpen their slab skills.

Gear Requirements

The route is fully bolted with solid anchors and well-placed bolts. Quickdraws sufficient for a single pitch are recommended, along with climbing shoes tailored for slab and steep terrain.

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Tags

bolted
exposed
technical slab
airy corner
single pitch
shaded wall