Faucon brosse offers a focused two-pitch adventure on the smooth granite slabs just right of the classic La suite du Surplomb in the Vieux-Stoneham area near Quebec City. The route blends technical trad moves with subtle holds on a polished face, testing both your gear placements and route-finding skills in a compact but satisfying package. The first pitch starts directly on the slab featuring two fixed bolts before transitioning into a horizontal crack where gear earns its keep. For a more committed option, a left-hand variation from the L’arme belay ventures up a dihedral rated around 5.9, offering sustained, delicate moves on about 30 meters of climbing. Pitch two follows, with a slightly easier 5.7 stretch of approximately 40 meters leading smoothly to the top of the cliff. The granite here offers minimal friction, demanding steady footwork and confidence in placing protection.

The approach to Faucon brosse is straightforward from the nearby trailhead in Vieux-Stoneham, with well-kept paths navigating mixed forest and occasional scrub before opening up to the base of the wall. The climb’s location on a south-facing slab means afternoons bring good warmth and dappled sun, while mornings can be cooler and more shaded. Bird conservation efforts mean that this route is best avoided during nesting seasons to respect local wildlife.

Protective gear centers on standard trad sets, with two bolts anchoring the lower slab and reliable gear placements in the horizontal crack and dihedral. The rock quality is solid, though the smooth granite leaves little margin for error, rewarding cautious, well-placed pro over rushed clipping. Descending is typically managed by a two-rope rappel from established anchors, though strong parties familiar with the site might find the downclimb approachable under dry conditions.

For those who appreciate a climb that blends slab technique, gear management, and a quiet approach, Faucon brosse remains a worthwhile challenge in Quebec’s climbing landscape. It’s a route that invites focus, steady movement, and respect for the surrounding natural rhythms.

To prepare, plan to bring a rack that balances small to medium nuts and cams, along with slings for extending pieces in the horizontal section. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential for reliable edging on the smooth slab. Hydration and timing are important, as the exposed granite heats quickly under the sun during summer days. Keep an eye on weather forecasts; rain leaves the rock slick and dangerous.

Faucon brosse offers practical, technical climbing in an accessible package with scenic views of the Charlevoix region. Whether you’re sharpening slab skills or aiming to combine a short trad route with local exploration, this line delivers a textured experience packed into two solid pitches.