"Fat's Hex delivers a concise but rewarding trad climb on Bishop Peak, balancing a technical lieback, a wide horizontal crack, and a chimney finish. Ideal for those seeking a brief, gear-rich challenge close to San Luis Obispo."
Fat's Hex offers climbers a concentrated burst of classic trad climbing on the rugged face of Bishop Peak, just outside San Luis Obispo. This route packs a surprising amount of variety into its brief 30-foot length, rewarding those who relish technical crack work and smart gear placements. The climb begins with a compelling lieback sequence, testing finger strength and balance as you negotiate the initial overhung section. From there, the route opens into a horizontal wide crack stretching about 10 feet, demanding careful hand jams and an embracing move to mantle onto the ledge above.
The final stretch transitions into a short chimney rated at 5.7, providing a natural rest and a convenient spot for a body belay if you're top-roping the climb. The chimney's tight confines invite a tactile connection with the rock—feel the stone pressing lightly against your back as you trust your footwork and body positioning to keep you aligned and secure.
Climbers tackling Fat’s Hex will find it crucial to come equipped with large cams, as the protection relies heavily on solid placements in the wide crack section. The rock here is firm and reliable, but the spacious nature of the crack means you’ll need generous gear to anchor your safety. The route’s exposure is minimal, making it a rewarding intro to more sustained crack lines found throughout Bishop Peak while still offering a focused challenge for those refining their crack technique.
Hidden Gully itself is an accessible area within the broader Bishop Peak region and offers an intimate climbing experience away from busier trails. The approach involves a short, well-worn path through chaparral and sparse trees, with plenty of Southern California sun overhead for much of the day, so planning early morning ascents can help beat the heat.
Whether you’re working on your crack climbing skills or simply seeking a quick trad route with varied moves, Fat’s Hex delivers straightforward beta with enough character to pique interest. The manageable length and clear protection needs make this climb an excellent choice for a focused session or as part of a larger day exploring Bishop Peak’s offerings. Be ready for sharp rock and bring your patience to master the mantle and chimney finish.
Watch for sharp edges on the rock, especially near the horizontal crack and mantle. Large cams are necessary for reliable protection; insufficient gear can make the mantle section feel more dangerous than the climbing grade suggests. The chimney requires good footwork to avoid slips, so climbing shoes with good grip and mindful technique are recommended.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed approach.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for the mantle climb.
Bring big cams ranging from #3 to #6 for optimal protection.
Prepare for a brief but technical climb; pace yourself through the chimney finish.
Large cams are essential to protect the wide horizontal crack, and a full rack with big sizes ensures safe placements through the mantle and chimney sections.
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