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Farewell Infidel: A Bold Test on Ontario's Central Wall

Hamilton, Ontario Canada
sport climbing
roof bulge
kneebar rest
single pitch
technical moves
rough rock
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Farewell Infidel
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Farewell Infidel is a punchy, single-pitch sport climb on Mount Nemo’s Central Wall, requiring precision on coarse rock and power through a demanding roof bulge. With solid anchors and a unique kneebar rest, it’s an ideal test for climbers stepping into the mid-11s."

Farewell Infidel: A Bold Test on Ontario's Central Wall

Farewell Infidel presents a concentrated burst of sport climbing challenge on the rugged face of Mount Nemo’s Central Wall. This route demands attention right from the start, where three bolts fixed into unusually coarse rock test your precision and commitment. The stone here is unforgiving—its texture rough and uneven, requiring delicate footwork and confident trust in the protection. Climbers are greeted by a low ledge, compact but crucial, that serves as a brief resting point before the route launches into a short, powerful roof bulge. This crux is the defining moment of the climb: a demanding sequence that favors well-timed moves and body tension. For those whose power might flag, the presence of a carefully placed kneebar offers a welcome chance to regroup before pushing onward.

Above this challenge, the final stretch veers behind a cedar branch, adding a subtle natural obstacle before reaching the solid anchors. The protection system, though minimalist, holds steady on the route’s single pitch. While the length is concise, the intensity fills the brief effort with a sense of urgency and accomplishment. Anglers of athletic, finger-strength sequences will find Farewell Infidel an engaging test, sharper and more technical than many neighboring climbs.

Getting to the Central Wall means accessing the heart of Mount Nemo’s famed climbing area in Ontario’s Golden Horseshoe—a region marked by accessible climbing with a raw, elemental feel. The wall’s orientation exposes it to midday sun, so early morning or late afternoon attempts are ideal to avoid overheating and maintain optimal friction. The mix of solid anchors and challenging moves makes this route a solid choice for climbers sharpening their ability in mid-11s sport routes. Be prepared for the gritty texture under your fingers, which adds an unexpected layer of difficulty compared to smoother limestone climbs nearby.

Whether you’re after a quick, sharp sending session or testing your skills in a concentrated pitch, Farewell Infidel delivers a rewarding experience set within the approachable, yet characterful terrain of Ontario’s climbing scene. Warm up thoroughly, watch the rock quality closely, and be ready to seize the kneebar when the roof demands a pause. Solid protection, a single pitch height, and a technical crux make this a memorable outing for climbers seeking a straightforward but demanding sport line.

Climber Safety

The rock quality is lower than typical limestone here, so test holds carefully, especially around the roof bulge. The cedar branch near the anchors can complicate clipping; approach with caution to prevent gear hang-ups.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach early or late in the day to avoid strong sun on the wall.

Prepare for variable rock texture—expect rough holds requiring careful footwork.

Bring shoes with sticky rubber for better friction against coarse stone.

Watch out for the cedar branch—stay clear when clipping anchors to avoid gear snag.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11d grade feels firm due to the sustained technicality of the roof bulge and the coarse rock texture underfoot. The crux demands good finger strength and a confident kneebar setup to mitigate pump. Compared to other Central Wall routes, Farewell Infidel stands out for its intense, concentrated effort over a short pitch.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by three bolts climbing the face, culminating in anchors behind a cedar limb. A kneebar opportunity near the roof bulge offers a rest for less powerful climbers.

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Tags

sport climbing
roof bulge
kneebar rest
single pitch
technical moves
rough rock