Just beyond the bold profile of the Bookmark formation in Colorado’s Estes Park Valley lies Fantasy Ridge, a trad climbing route that rewards those willing to navigate its subtle challenges and striking exposures. This four-pitch climb offers a balanced adventure where technical finesse and steady nerves blend against a backdrop of rugged rock and panoramic wilderness. Approaching from the southwest corner of the Bookmark, the route begins with a left-leaning fist crack that signals a climb demanding an attentive eye and a confident rack.

The first pitch sets the tone by weaving between a firm fist crack and a delicate finger crack, inviting climbers into an easy slab that reveals the south face’s gentle gradient. This pitch culminates in a comfortable belay spot near the top of a corner, providing both a moment to catch your breath and an opportunity to appreciate the vast ridge perched overhead. Pitch two demands respect and precision: after clipping a freshly updated bolt and placing a small cam—slightly questionable but workable—you negotiate a series of carefully balanced 5.9 slab moves that lead to another crack system. The key here is avoiding the temptation to head straight up, as a misstep in this section could lead to a serious fall.

The route’s highlight is undeniably the third pitch. Approach the roofed alcove on the upper right with focused intent, passing through a 5.8 corner that opens into a thin crack. It’s here the rock tightens, and the exposure sharpens, testing both technique and composure. The crux comes near the roof’s end, where a demanding 5.9 climb along a narrow crack commands commitment and finesse. This pitch’s length and sustained difficulty make it the heart of the route, leaving climbers with a palpable sense of accomplishment upon reaching the ledge.

The final pitch resumes the rhythm of sustained trad climbing with an overhanging 5.9 crack that challenges endurance. Beyond this, the climbing eases, guiding you to the summit where a chasm demands a careful crossing to reach the rappel or downclimb options. Given the mix of runouts, delicate moves, and an exposed setting, this route invites climbers ready to balance thrill with thoughtful caution.

The rock quality here is typical of the Lumpy Ridge area—solid but occasionally fragmented. A full standard rack including a strong emphasis on thin pieces is essential to protect the varied crack sizes encountered along the way. Thoughtful gear placement combined with clear route reading will ease the mental load on more runout or questionable sections.

Fantasy Ridge isn’t for those seeking a sprint up a well-trodden wall. It’s a route that demands attention and rewards skilled climbers with an engaging experience crowned by compelling exposure and steady movement. Plan your ascent during stable, dry conditions—wet rock here quickly becomes treacherous, and afternoon storms are not uncommon. The approach strolls through forested trails with occasional views that tease the climb to come, setting a quiet yet adventurous tone.

Whether you are aiming to sharpen your 5.9 trad skills or looking for a memorable climb with scenic payoff in Rocky Mountain National Park’s backyard, Fantasy Ridge offers a grounded adventure that leaves you connected with the evolving face of Lumpy Ridge. Bring patience, a full rack, and a readiness to engage with both the rock and the surrounding wildness for a climb that’s as rewarding as it is real.