"Fantasme presents a two-pitch trad route that starts with a confident 5.9 corner and culminates in a sustained, technical 5.11d pitch. Set within the Palissades de Charlevoix near Quebec City, it balances exposure, rock quality, and challenge for trad climbers ready to test their skills."
Fantasme offers a focused, thrilling trad climbing experience etched into the dramatic Palissades de Charlevoix near Quebec City. The route starts with a solid, slightly overhanging corner that demands precise footwork and calm confidence on its first pitch, rated 5.9. The rock’s texture here provides just enough edge to feel secure while the natural features guide your ascent toward a well-placed bolted anchor. The second pitch intensifies the challenge, jumping into the steep, sustained 5.11d crux. This section tests your strength, technique, and mental steadiness as the corner tightens and the angle picks up, requiring committed moves with limited rests.
Situated just outside the urban buzz, the climb takes place at the heart of the Palissades de Charlevoix, a rugged massif with broad vistas over the St. Lawrence River and surrounding wilderness. The cliff itself wears the marks of time, offering clean cracks and pockets that call for hands and fingers to find purchase, daring climbers to trust their gear placements and their own movement. The exposure here is encouraging rather than intimidating, framed by the crisp northern airs that sweep through the canyon, reminding you of the wild element that defines this northern crag.
Preparation is key: a double rack of gear up to 3 inches will cover the protection needs, with the natural line featuring placements for conventional nuts and cams. The approach is straightforward, found within the Forteresse sector, a well-known spot among Quebec’s trad climbing community. Expect a modest hike from well-marked trails with some uneven terrain, requiring good footwear and efficient pacing to preserve energy for the route.
Fantasme’s ascent offers more than just the physical challenge. The quieter atmosphere away from the city, the tactile engagement with the rock, and the rewarding views combine for an adventure that feels both private and epic. Climbers seeking a perfect blend of moderate commitment and technical climbing will find this two-pitch route a fitting objective. Timing your climb during late spring through early fall ensures dry rock and pleasant temperatures, while mornings bring cooler shade on the wall, making early starts ideal for avoiding heat or lingering moisture.
Descent is by rappel from fixed anchors, emphasizing the importance of checking hardware before lowering off. Safety on this route hinges on solid gear placement on the crux pitch, where rock features demand precise protection, and staying alert during transitions between pitches. Local climbers appreciate Fantasme for its ability to condense compelling technical moves into a compact climb that leaves you wanting more. Whether you're sharpening your trad skills or chasing the satisfaction of a well-earned send, this line represents a confident step into Quebec's wild climbing side.
Be cautious on the second pitch where gear placements can be subtle; always double-check your pro and stay aware of loose rock, especially after rain or seasonal freeze-thaw cycles. Confirm anchorage points are solid before committing to rappels.
Start early to catch morning shade on the wall and avoid afternoon heat.
Wear sturdy approach shoes—trail is uneven but well-marked.
Check fixed gear before relying on anchors for rappel.
Bring ample water and snacks; the approach and climb demand sustained focus.
Bring a double rack of cams ranging up to 3 inches to safely protect the route’s exposed and sometimes tricky placements. The bolted anchor at the first pitch offers security, but traditional protection is essential for the steep and sustained second pitch.
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