HomeClimbingFanny Hill

Fanny Hill Trad Climb at Bon Echo

Bon Echo, Ontario Canada
multi-pitch
trad
moderate grade
blocky terrain
steep wall
ramp
loose rock alert
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Fanny Hill
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fanny Hill offers moderate trad climbing across three pitches of varied terrain. Its approachable 5.5 rating and reliable protection make it ideal for newcomers and experienced climbers alike seeking a focused, tactile connection with Bon Echo’s characteristic rock."

Fanny Hill Trad Climb at Bon Echo

Fanny Hill unfolds across three distinct pitches that offer a straightforward yet engaging trad experience within the rugged landscape of Bon Echo, Ontario’s premier climbing destination. From the first pitch, you step onto broad, rugged blocks that demand steady footing as you move upward and left, then traverse right along a sturdy ledge. The crack that follows invites hands and feet to find solid holds, culminating on a wide stance where you can pause before continuing. The second pitch ramps up the challenge with a steep wall angled left, requiring thoughtful movement upward and then right, negotiating a series of natural platforms that feel both natural and tested. The final pitch offers a change of pace: a gentle ramp leading to an exit that threads past an overhang or weaves through dense shrubs, inviting climbers to engage with the terrain as much as the rock.

Protection is generally reliable here, with good placements to be found along the route; however, climbers should remain vigilant for loose rock, especially along the upper pitches where nature’s shifts have unsettled some features. This route suits climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills on moderate terrain that balances movement variety and solid anchors.

Approach is straightforward, with access through Bon Echo’s well-maintained trails guiding you towards this classic bouldering and trad area. The climb’s moderate grade (5.5) and comfortable length make it accessible for both novices ready to push their limits and seasoned climbers seeking a relaxed outing with enough challenge to stay engaged.

The setting pulses with the steady hum of the forest around you, with sunlight filtering through maple and pine, while distant birds punctuate the quiet. The rock itself feels rooted in place, weathered but welcoming, encouraging confident placements and calm rhythm. By pacing yourself and respecting the natural rhythm of the climb, you’ll find a satisfying blend of exercise, focus, and outdoor connection that epitomizes Bon Echo’s climbing spirit.

Prepare for your climb by ensuring your gear rack includes a variety of cams and nuts suitable for moderate crack sizes, as protection opportunities depend on attentive placement. Sturdy, grippy footwear will serve you well on the varied terrain from blocks to ramp. Timing your climb for spring through early fall will help you avoid the dampness and cooler temperatures that can make holds slick and mental focus more difficult. This route offers an approachable yet rewarding trad outing with enough variety to engage your technique and leave you eager for more adventures in this celebrated Canadian climbing hub.

Climber Safety

Loose rock is present primarily on upper pitches; test all holds and placements carefully to avoid dislodging debris. Always wear a helmet and communicate clearly with your climbing partner during the traverse and ledge sections.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via the established Bon Echo trails for a clear path to the climb.

Check weather and avoid climbs in wet conditions; the rock can get slippery.

Use sturdy, grippy shoes to handle the blocky terrain and ramp sections.

Plan your climb during spring to early fall for ideal temperature and rock conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.5
Quality
Consensus:The 5.5 rating on Fanny Hill feels true to moderate difficulty without softening the effort required. The climb’s crux appears on the second pitch, where the steep wall demands precise footwork and confident placement. Compared to similar Ontario routes, this climb offers accessible movement with a slightly adventurous edge due to the varied terrain and loose rock caution.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with a range of cams and nuts to fit moderate cracks. Watch carefully for occasional loose rock, especially near the top pitches.

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Tags

multi-pitch
trad
moderate grade
blocky terrain
steep wall
ramp
loose rock alert