Fancy Tail channels focused, hands-on trad climbing into a single pitch carved on the orange-hued sandstone of Cedar Rock’s South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. This 65-foot route offers an engaging sequence that balances technical moves with clever gear placements, perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their skills in a vivid mountain setting just outside Lyons, Colorado. The climb begins on the right edge of a distinctly orange rock face, where your fingers find purchase on crimps and edges, moving upward to an overhang secured with two bolts. Here, stem out and place a cam, stabilizing your position before executing a confident layback move to clip the bolt guarding the roof’s lip. The transition from overhang to a left-facing lieback draws you into a natural groove, pulling you toward a ledge that provides momentary reprieve.

From this ledge, Fancy Tail guides you into a tight dihedral that tests both technique and composure. The climbing remains moderate yet dynamic as you work upward, eventually reaching out right to snag the arete. This final move adds a burst of exposure and delicacy, bringing the climb to its close at a two-bolt anchor. Protected by three bolts alongside a standard rack, this route rewards thoughtful gear placement and smooth body positioning.

Surrounding the climb, the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon delivers a rugged, forested backdrop, where the stand of pines hums softly and the canyon’s contours invite exploration beyond the rock face. The area sits at an elevation just above 7,000 feet, providing a crisp mountain air that sharpens senses and quickens the pulse. Given the single-pitch nature and approachable rating of 5.9, Fancy Tail fits well into a day’s outing—whether honing trad skills or adding variety to a weekend of local climbing.

Wind conditions can shift quickly here, with canyon breezes pushing through the trees, reminding you to layer appropriately and keep hydration close. Footwear with excellent edging ability will serve well on the sandstone’s textured surfaces. The route’s compact length means you can climb fresh and confident, while the safety of fixed bolts complements well with traditional gear placements. No rush is needed—move deliberately, read the rock carefully, and enjoy the tactile conversation between your hands and the stone.

Fancy Tail makes a great starting line for those eager to test themselves on natural features and modest protection, with enough movement to enliven your rope time. Combined with a quick approach and solid protection, this climb embodies a practical and inspiring taste of Colorado’s accessible trad climbing.