"Family Therapy challenges climbers with a dynamic leftward traverse on the Tower of Babel’s west face. This 100-foot sport climb blends technical moves with reliable protection, making it a worthy test for those stepping beyond vertical lines."
Family Therapy offers a unique climbing experience on the west face of the Tower of Babel within the Angeles National Forest. This single-pitch sport route challenges climbers with a leftward traverse that demands steady footwork and precise clipping across pockets and knobs. Starting at the toe of the buttress, you’ll pull yourself into a sizable hueco accessed via a delicate flake that tests your balance and control before easing into a series of maroon bolts guiding you along the line. The rock feels alive beneath your fingers—textured yet raw, urging careful movement through the traverse.
The route threads its way past the 4th bolt of a neighboring climb named “Heart and Sole,” and then crosses the water groove defined by "Cross Your Heart~” where eight bolts mark the path. Following this, the traverse continues up and left, intersecting with the 7th bolt of "Texas Two Step" before reaching a secure two-ring Fixe anchor. The climb stretches about 100 feet with a moderate but engaging 5.8 rating that comfortably welcomes intermediate climbers while still offering moments that pull you into focused effort.
Approaching Texas Canyon, found near Los Angeles, you will experience the dry California sun contrasting with pockets of cool shade falling over the jagged rock face. This route’s flowing traverse allows you to appreciate the vastness of the Angeles National Forest from varying angles as the face leans back just enough to open your line of sight to the rugged environment around it. The bolt placements provide reliable security, although the delicate flake at the start requires mindfulness to avoid unplanned slippage.
In terms of gear, seven bolts are spaced evenly, so sport climbers can move confidently up the route with just a standard quickdraw rack and a few slings. Fixed anchors simplify the top-out, allowing for straightforward rappelling or lowering off once the climb is complete. Whether you’re seeking to sharpen your technique on traverses or simply soak in a less-traveled line within this busy climbing area, Family Therapy is a rewarding choice that strikes a balance between challenge and accessibility.
Timing your climb during the cooler hours of morning or late afternoon optimizes comfort and grip, especially in warmer months. Water and hydration are essential here—the dry heat of the Los Angeles Basin can sneak up on you. Footwear with sticky rubber and precision edging will help navigate the pockets and knobs that define this route’s character.
This location’s proximity to the city makes it an excellent after-work option or a day trip that blends the adrenaline of sport climbing with the natural beauty of California’s rocky outcrops. Family Therapy’s traverse style offers a distinct rhythm compared to vertical face climbs, inviting climbers to read the rock with intention and flow through its varied holds while touching the pulse of the Angeles National Forest.
The initial flake near the start looks fragile and demands focused balance—avoid sudden weight shifts here. While bolts are reliable, always clip carefully and be mindful of potential rockfall during peak temperature changes. Additionally, the approach terrain can be loose, so wear sturdy shoes and watch your footing.
Start early to avoid peak heat and enjoy better grip on the rock.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for the pockets and knobs encountered along the traverse.
Watch the fragile flake at the start; it requires delicate movement to maintain balance.
Hydrate adequately—this area can become dry and warm quickly, especially midday.
The climb features seven bolts and finishes at a two-ring Fixe anchor, creating a straightforward sport route for those equipped with standard quickdraws. The protection is solid throughout, with bolts strategically placed along the traverse to minimize risk.
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