"Falling Star offers a gritty four-pitch adventure on Tollhouse Rock’s Main Wall, mixing technical cracks, subtle friction, and long runouts. This 5.9 PG13 trad climb demands attentive gear work and steady nerves amid expansive Sierra views."
Falling Star traces an adventurous arc across the Main Wall of Tollhouse Rock, offering climbers a blend of technical cracks, steep friction, and runout sections that demand both respect and careful planning. This four-pitch tradition climb gains nearly 500 feet in elevation, winding its way up a diverse rock face punctuated by sharp corners and sparse protection typical of the Southern Sierra’s granite walls. Starting just left of the Elephant Walk route, the initial pitch launches you into a thin, 1-inch crack that challenges your crack climbing skills with placements ranging from a #5 Metolius cam to a precise finger jam. Early on, the route hints at its nature: protection can be sparse and runouts common, so every move requires a balance of boldness and prudence.
As you shift right onto a distinctive ramp and then tackle a slightly flaring roof, anticipation builds; here, the pro is thin, and the crux demands steady technique on delicate holds rather than brute strength. Passing two bolts along the way, the pitch finishes at a well-established two-bolt belay shared with the Wandering Taoist anchors, a welcome relief after 200 feet of climbing that mixes cracks, corners, and face climbing.
Pitch two eases into more moderate climbing but maintains a continuous attention to detail as you move over sloping dishes and solid edges, protecting between bolts spaced 30 feet apart. The rhythm here favors smooth, controlled climbing over power moves, making this a good section to catch your breath and appreciate the crisp mountain air hovering over Tollhouse’s rocky spine.
The third pitch shifts attention to a traverse moving right before ascending a series of bolts. This segment is where friction dominates, and the rock’s texture demands precise footwork. The protection is a mix of bolts and a possible placement with a #1 Metolius TCU, but some older, compromised bolts remain—climbers should assess their gear carefully. The route here tightens in its features, and finishing the pitch requires steady balance and mental focus, ending on a two-bolt hanging belay.
The final pitch heads directly upward past left-slanting cracks that can accept larger cams, weaving through three bolts to reach a prominent right-facing corner. This stretch demands efficient gear placement and confident movement, spiced with short runs of 3rd-class scrambling to the summit where the full scope of the climb and the surrounding Sierra foothills open up. The descent follows established rappel points, but stubborn bushwhacking below reminds climbers why the route’s creators bolted in the first place.
Falling Star’s name suits its character: a route that arcs dramatically across the face, testing steadiness on runouts and rewarding with its exposed position and pristine granite. Climbers attempting it should have solid gear judgment, a good rack of cams up to 1 inch, and be prepared for sustained moderate difficulties peppered with occasional tricky sequences. It’s a route that balances thrill with a rugged, straightforward approach to protection and movement, welcoming climbers ready to engage both body and mind amid the stark beauty of the Southern Sierra.
Runouts and occasional poor placements warrant cautious movement and clean gear assessment. Some older bolts are in questionable condition; practice redundancy and avoid relying solely on fixed hardware. The dense bushwhacking below makes the rappel descent essential to safety.
Start left of Elephant Walk; the 1" crack marks the route’s true beginning.
Bring a full range of cams up to 1 inch for varied crack sizes and protection.
Watch for some older bolts; evaluate their condition before trusting them.
Plan for a rappel descent to avoid dense brush below the summit.
+ 60 meter rope + Pro to 1" Camelot + (8) quickdraws + 2 to 3 foot slings + Lockers and slings for the belays
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