HomeClimbingFace Route

Face Route at The Bubble - Classic Wine Country Sport Climb

Calistoga,California ,United States
pockets
slab
reach crux
bolted
single pitch
wine country
moderate
Grade: 5.9
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Face Route
Aspect
South Facing

Face Route

5.9, Sport, TR

Calistoga

California ,United States

Overview

"The Face Route is a 60-foot slab and vertical wall climb at The Bubble near Mount St. Helena, blending moderate moves with a challenging reach crux. Ideal for climbers ready to refine footwork in a stunning wine country setting."

Face Route at The Bubble - Classic Wine Country Sport Climb

Situated on the rugged outcrop known simply as The Bubble, just above Mount St. Helena, the Face Route offers an inviting introduction to the slabby-featured climbs of Northern California's wine country. This single-pitch, 60-foot climb presents a compelling mix of smooth slabs and vertical faces punctuated by pockets that challenge your balance and precision. The route begins at the leftmost marked bolted line, climbing steadily upward with bolts spaced to encourage thoughtful movement rather than relentless clipping. As you ascend, the sun-baked rock warms your hands while a faint breeze from the nearby San Francisco Bay Area keeps the air fresh and breathable. Despite its approachable 5.9 rating, the Face Route demands respect; the crux is a reach move located roughly two-thirds of the way up, requiring a bit of wingspan or well-timed body positioning to overcome. Climbers shorter in stature might find it nudges into 5.10a territory during this key sequence. Protection remains solid but somewhat spread out, especially near the crux, so climbers should come prepared for confident clipping and secure footwork. At the summit, the bolted anchor sits slightly back from the top edge, a thoughtful arrangement designed to reduce wear on gear from repeated top-roping or lowering offs. This placement does necessitate longer slings or webbing to leave a safe and comfortable setup. The area around The Bubble is more than just rock — the surrounding wine country hills roll gently below, shaded vineyards and oak groves visible in the distance, punctuated by the occasional call of wildlife. Access to the route is straightforward, with a short approach from the parking area, making it an excellent choice for both early-season warm-ups and laid-back afternoon climbs. In practical terms, climbers will benefit from sturdy climbing shoes with precise edging ability to handle the slab's subtle incuts, and ensure hydration is adequate as the exposed rock can reflect heat mid-morning through late afternoon. Early spring through fall offers the best conditions, with winter rains often slickening the polished faces. Whether you’re brushing up on slab skills or seeking a climb with a taste of California’s unique volcanic landscape, the Face Route at The Bubble is a rewarding option with just enough challenge to keep it engaging without pushing into the realm of relentless difficulty.

Climber Safety

The top anchor is placed back from the summit ledge, so extended slings or webbing are necessary to avoid awkward lowering or top-rope setups. Bolts are well-placed but not densely spaced, requiring confident clipping near the crux. Be cautious of sun exposure and heat on the rock, particularly on warmer days.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Bring longer slings or webbing to extend the top anchor comfortably.

Start climbs early to avoid afternoon heat reflecting off the rock.

Wear shoes with excellent edging for the slabby's subtle holds.

Consider top-roping if your experience is under 5.9 for added safety.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though officially rated 5.9, the crux moves feel close to 5.10a for climbers with shorter reach, especially due to a key reach two-thirds up the route. The protection is good but spaced enough to encourage careful movement. Compared to other nearby sport climbs, Face is a solid test of slab technique without overwhelming technical complexity.

Gear Requirements

Bolted anchors secure the route, spaced to allow safe clipping with some attention needed at the crux. Long slings or webbing are essential for reaching the slightly backset top anchor, easing top-rope or lowering procedures.

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Tags

pockets
slab
reach crux
bolted
single pitch
wine country
moderate