HomeClimbingFace Nord

Face Nord: Technical Trad Climb in the Laurentians

Val-David, Canada
exposed clip
finger cams
short pitch
granite texture
Laurentians
quiet area
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Face Nord
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Face Nord delivers a focused, technical trad challenge on Quebec’s granite cliffs. With an exposed clip and delicate moves, this single-pitch climb demands precision and finger strength, set against the quiet backdrop of the Laurentian forests."

Face Nord: Technical Trad Climb in the Laurentians

Face Nord presents a compelling challenge along the rocky spine of the Laurentians, where the granite face demands steady nerves and precise technique. This single-pitch trad route begins on a narrow ledge, requiring a careful, exposed clip that feels more intimidating if you’re shorter—every movement counts as you reach for protection. The climbing starts with delicate moves near the first bolt, testing finger strength and balance on small holds, before easing into more secure grips that invite a steadier rhythm. The granite’s texture is crisp under your fingertips, the rock offering just enough friction to keep your confidence alive as you navigate this brief but intense crux.

The route’s setting in Val-David places it within a rugged stretch of Quebec’s Laurentian Mountains, where the surrounding forest hums quietly beneath the cliff, suggesting both solitude and wildness. From the belay ledge, panoramic views open to rolling green hills and distant ridges. It’s a climb that blends technical demands with a touch of alpine character, offering routesetters’ classic protection spots—three bolts interspersed with finger-sized cams that secure the anchor at the top.

Approaching Face Nord involves a short trek through mixed terrain, moving from forest paths to rocky outcrops. The approach trail is manageable though uneven in spots, requiring good footwear and attention to footing. It’s ideal to climb this route when conditions are dry; granite slicks quickly when damp, and the exposure makes for a chilly feeling on breezy days.

This climb suits hands-on climbers eager for a compact session of focused movement and gear placements. Prepare for the brief exposure at the start by rehearsing calm clipping under pressure and bring your finger cams to supplement the bolts. The route’s rating of 5.10d places it at the edge between intermediate and advanced trad climbers, offering serious enthusiasts a chance to sharpen their mental game alongside technical skill. If you’re looking for a sharp outing close to town with a textured rock face and straightforward protection, Face Nord is a solid choice to add to your Laurentians agenda.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the ledge before the first clip—it's narrow and demands confident movement. The rock can be slick in wet conditions, so avoid climbing after rain or heavy dew to prevent slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach starts on uneven forest trails—wear sturdy shoes to protect your feet.

Clip the first bolt carefully; exposure can feel intense if you’re shorter.

Finger-sized cams are essential to back up the fixed bolts near the top.

Best climbed on dry days to maximize friction and reduce slip risk.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating feels accurate, with a hard start that tests your ability to stay calm and precise under exposure. The crux hinges on delicate body positioning rather than pure power, making it a technical effort similar to other advanced trad climbs in the Laurentians.

Gear Requirements

Three bolts protect the main moves, but supplementing with finger-sized cams towards the anchor ensures solid placement and peace of mind on the upper section.

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Tags

exposed clip
finger cams
short pitch
granite texture
Laurentians
quiet area