"Face Directe Directe offers a brief yet technical sport climb perched on a tooth-shaped boulder near the signature needle of Val-David. Precision finger work and strategic side pulls combine to create a sharp, focused challenge perfect for a quick session in the Laurentians."
Face Directe Directe cuts a concise, spirited path along a small tooth-shaped boulder set just right of the prominent needle in the Laurentians. This one-pitch sport climb, though modest in length at 50 feet, delivers a concentrated dose of technical climbing that appeals to those looking for a quick, focused session in the Quebec outdoors. The climb begins with precise movements on tiny crimps that demand steady balance and refined footwork. Nubby footholds press underfoot, inviting climbers to trust the subtle texture of the stone as they ascend the face.
The route’s character shifts as you gain height, where interesting side pulls carve a unique rhythm into each move. These holds challenge your grip and body positioning, requiring a measured approach rather than brute strength. Before reaching the final section, you'll find a solid rest below a small roof—a welcome pause to gather energy, assess your next moves, and plan the top-out sequence.
Stepping beyond the roof, the path leads you onto a ledge where a two-bolt anchor awaits, marking a defined finish. The sport protection consists of four bolts spaced for comfort but still close enough to maintain a sense of engagement. Using a stick clip is advisable, especially if you're keen to minimize ground falls on the initial moves.
This climb sits in Val-David, a region known for its accessible crags and forested environment, where the air hums softly with pine and the occasional call of local wildlife. The approach is straightforward, making it an ideal choice for climbers eager to experience the Laurentians' granite quality without an extended trek.
To fully appreciate Face Directe Directe, plan for a time when the sun is high enough to dry the rock but not so hot as to sap your strength. Spring through early fall offers stable conditions, though the route’s brief length means it’s often a good option when time is pressing but the urge to climb remains strong. Sturdy climbing shoes with precise edging capability will serve well here, while hydration and tick prevention are practical considerations reflective of the region’s lush woodland setting.
Overall, Face Directe Directe blends straightforward access with a technical pulse that keeps your attention sharpened from start to finish. It’s a rewarding climb for those ready to execute delicate movements on solid sport protection, set against the backdrop of Quebec’s quiet mountains.
Although well-protected with four bolts, the first few moves sit close to the ground, making a stick clip an important safety measure to reduce risk of ground falls. The rock is generally solid, but the ledge before the anchor should be approached with care as it offers limited space to rest or belay.
Bring a stick clip to avoid tricky ground falls on the start.
Plan your climb for mid-morning or afternoon to catch optimal sun on the face.
Use climbing shoes with sensitive edging for the small crimps and nubs.
Watch for damp rock early in spring; the route dries quickly in afternoon sun.
Four bolts protect the route with a two-bolt anchor at the top. Stick clipping is recommended to safely negotiate the first moves.
Upload your photos of Face Directe Directe and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.