Exploring Three Hour Buttress: Pine Creek's Granite Playground

Bishop, California
granite
mixed gear
multi-pitch
easy approach
afternoon shade
winter climbing
classic routes
Length: 500 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
Multi-pitch
Protected Place
Eastern Sierra, California
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Three Hour Buttress offers climbers a diverse blend of mixed gear and bolted routes on quality Pine Creek granite just minutes from the car. With morning sun and afternoon shade, it’s perfect for climbing through multiple seasons, boasting classic routes like Three Hour Arete and StrikeSlip in a spectacular Eastern Sierra canyon setting."

Exploring Three Hour Buttress: Pine Creek's Granite Playground

Perched at 7,400 feet in California’s Eastern Sierra, Three Hour Buttress offers climbers an accessible gateway to Pine Creek’s rugged granite walls just minutes from your car. This spot’s charm lies not only in the quality of its granite but also in its approachable layout – a short, straightforward approach brings you quickly to solid lines of mixed gear and bolted routes that cater to both enthusiastic newcomers and seasoned climbers eager for a crisp day outdoors.

The signature climb, Three Hour Arete, is a must-do for anyone visiting the area. It stands out with a unique variation on the fourth pitch, adding intrigue for those familiar with the route. For a warm-up or a relaxed cool-down, StrikeSlip provides an engaging 5.9 system that prepares your fingers and sharpens technique. Other classics like Double Stop, rated 5.6 and Hall Pass at a more demanding 5.10d, round out a compact selection of compelling challenges.

Morning light bathes the rock in warmth, illuminating the granite’s subtle textures before the afternoon shade creeps in – perfect for avoiding the heat during summer climbs. While climbers often favor the cooler months of winter and spring, fall and late summer evenings bring equally rewarding conditions, with crisp air and quieter trails. Pine Creek Canyon itself delivers a striking natural backdrop: rugged canyon walls frame your ascent, with a creek nearby adding a refreshing soundtrack to your climb.

The approach is straightforward—drive north from Bishop along Highway 395, then turn into Pine Creek Road. About 0.6 miles past Pratt’s Crack Gully, park where the road crosses a small creek. From there, a gradual stroll along an old mining route leads up a short Class 3 scramble to the base of the cliff – be prepared for about a 10-minute hike. This accessible approach means you can maximize your time on the rock without a taxing trek.

Gear-wise, bring a mixed rack as routes combine traditional gear placements with fixed bolts. The granite here demands respect and care – solid protection is generally available but supplementing fixed gear with cams and nuts ensures confidence, especially on multi-pitch climbs. The rock tends to be solid and clean, typical of Pine Creek granite, requiring precise footwork and steady hand jams.

Descent is straightforward; once at the top of classic routes like Three Hour Arete, rappelling down is the norm. Plan your rappel anchors in advance and stay aware of loose rock on ledges. By respecting these details, you preserve both safety and the pristine quality of the area.

Three Hour Buttress sits within the Bishop Area’s Pine Creek Canyon, a quieter neighbor to the busier crags scattered throughout the Eastern Sierra. Its winter sun exposure and afternoon cooling shade bring a unique balance that invites climbing year-round except in peak summer heat. The setting encourages a focused climbing experience without crowds, making it ideal for those seeking quality granite with manageable approach and solid variety.

Whether your aim is to step up on established classics, hone your multi-pitch navigation, or simply soak up a slice of the Eastern Sierra’s granite majesty, Three Hour Buttress offers a rewarding day out. The combination of accessible terrain, distinct pitches, and a welcoming alpine environment makes it a solid choice on any climber’s itinerary. Remember to check weather forecasts ahead of time, prepare for sudden temperature drops, and respect local access guidelines to keep this gem thriving for generations to come.

Climber Safety

Approach involves a short Class 3 scramble that can be steep when wet. Always check conditions and ensure you have proper footwear. While the rock is generally sound, watch for loose debris on ledges and anchor rappels carefully to avoid hazards.

Area Details

TypeMixed
PitchesMulti-pitch
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Park just past Pratt’s Crack Creek crossing on Pine Creek Road for best access.

Plan your climbs for morning sun or late summer evenings to avoid peak heat.

Bring gear for both sport and trad protection due to mixed route styles.

Rappel carefully from anchors and watch for loose rock on ledges.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The area's routes range from moderate 5.6 up to challenging 5.10d, with grades generally considered fair and approachable for their difficulty. The rock quality means technical moves feel secure rather than over-gritty, providing a satisfying balance for intermediate and advanced climbers. Compared to other Eastern Sierra crags, Three Hour Buttress delivers a reliably solid experience without unexpected grade inflation.

Gear Requirements

Climbers should prepare for mixed gear and bolted protection on solid Pine Creek granite. A rack with cams and nuts is recommended alongside quickdraws to handle the combination of traditional placements and fixed bolts encountered. Expect mainly multi-pitch routes requiring solid anchor building and rope management skills.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

granite
mixed gear
multi-pitch
easy approach
afternoon shade
winter climbing
classic routes