"A two-pitch trad climb tucked into South Fork St. Vrain Canyon, offering steady crack climbing on granite with reliable protection. Quiet and approachable, this route rewards solid technique and careful route-finding amid a raw landscape near Lyons, Colorado."
Carving through the rugged walls of South Fork St. Vrain Canyon, this trad route offers an authentic taste of Colorado’s climbing grit against the backdrop of the Mushroom Massif. With just two pitches spanning 160 feet, it’s a manageable outing that balances the raw edge of lesser-traveled rock with the genuine pleasure of crack climbing. The approach leads you to an imposing granite face marked by a distinctive gunny system and left-leaning cracks, inviting climbers to engage with its natural features.
The first pitch starts just right of the famous Mushroom formation, moving through sections of rough, lightly lichen-covered stone that demand attentive footwork and steady hand jams. While the rock here shows signs of wear, the holds are reliable and placements sturdy. The climbing is moderate, rated around 5.7 with some PG-13 caution for runouts, rewarding solid crack technique and a calm mindset to handle exposed moves. Reaching the first belay, climbers find a spot where they can either pause or stride onward without interruption.
Pitch two demands more attention. Manteling up onto the spire puts you directly into the route’s heart, where a left-facing crack and flake system gains height aggressively. The bulge in the crack tests your jamming skills under vertical pressure, while the route eases into easier terrain as you near the top ledges. Protection here is straightforward but requires a good rack of nuts and cams, plus shoulder-length slings to manage a long pitch efficiently. The final belay is somewhat tucked, encouraging careful route-finding as you move left to meet the anchors established for the nearby Mushroom climb.
Beyond the climbing, the canyon atmosphere fuels the experience. The roar of St. Vrain River below dares you onward, while pine-scented air and shifting shadows hint at the changing day. This route is quiet, seldom crowded, and benefits from more visits since some sections still harbor lichen that fresh traffic would clear away. As it stands, the route carries a modest one-star rating but holds promise for elevation with brushing and additional ascents.
The descent involves two ropes: a 60-foot rappel followed by a 90-foot drop to the base, making it essential to bring enough cordage and practice smooth transitions. The trailhead is accessible from Lyons, Colorado, offering a straightforward approach through mildly forested terrain that preserves a sense of wilderness without demanding a full backcountry effort.
For climbers looking to combine approachable technical climbing with a quiet, character-rich outing that allows tight crack work and minimal crowds, this trad line in South Fork of St. Vrain delivers. The blend of manageable pitch length, solid protection options, and a raw, evolving line makes it a worthy addition to your Colorado climbing itinerary. Proper gear and route knowledge will ensure a safe and satisfying day on the rock, with nature’s persistent presence making each move feel vital and alive.
Runouts on both pitches require focus and confidence in placing gear, especially where the rock is lightly lichened and less trafficked. The top belay demands attention to fixed gear quality and careful scouting for solid placements before committing to the rappel stations. Plan your rope management and anchor systems accordingly.
Bring enough cord for two rappels: one of 60 feet followed by a 90-foot drop.
Wear shoes with solid edging to maintain contact on rough, partly lichenous sections.
Climb early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun exposure on the south-facing wall.
Trailhead access is straightforward from Lyons, but plan for a 20-minute approach through mixed terrain.
A full double rack of nuts and cams is necessary, along with shoulder-length slings to manage extended placements comfortably. It’s best to climb this as a single long pitch if possible to avoid drag. Fixed chains mark key belays, but additional protection should be placed thoughtfully.
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