Exploring the Broken Boulder: A Quaint Boulder Spot in California’s Central Coast

Santa Barbara, California
short problems
traverses
fine friction
easy approach
quaint
lightly trafficked
Length: 10 ft
Type: Boulder
Stars
Pitches
bouldering
Protected Place
Skofield Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Broken Boulder presents an intimate climbing environment just north of the Cracked Boulder in Skofield Park. With modest traverses and approachable problems, it’s a refreshing spot for those seeking relaxed bouldering in California’s Central Coast region."

Exploring the Broken Boulder: A Quaint Boulder Spot in California’s Central Coast

Set just uphill from the more frequented Cracked Boulder, Broken Boulder offers climbers a modest yet inviting outcrop to unwind and test their skills. Though its size is small, the collection of traverses and short problems pack an accessible punch, making it a comfortable spot to enjoy light bouldering without the fuss of a crowded crag. The rear-facing climbs reward you with a pleasant hillside view — an open invitation to soak up some quiet moments in this lightly trafficked area. Located along the main road through Skofield Park, getting here means passing iconic landmarks such as the Pissoir Boulder, then following the route a little further before spotting the boulder perched to your right.

The setting is straightforward and approachable, ideal for those who appreciate a no-frills adventure blended with a bit of scenery. Weather conditions are generally favorable for much of the year, with the prime climbing window spanning from late fall through early spring, when cooler temperatures keep the rock dry and friction reliable. For climbers preparing to explore Broken Boulder, the terrain is gentle on the approach—a quick and easy stroll from the road, placing you within reach of fun problems without a strenuous trek.

One classic climb stands out here: Bacon Pancakes (V2), earning a notable reputation with a solid 3.5-star rating from the climbing community. It’s a rewarding challenge that straddles the line between accessible and stimulating, making it an excellent spot for climbers looking to build confidence or enjoy an afternoon session.

Though the boulder’s modest size means routes tend to hover around shorter problems rather than long, sustained climbs, its character lies in simplicity and accessible terrain. It’s an appealing stop for visitors venturing within the Santa Barbara region’s Skofield Park, offering an option to escape crowds and experience a chunk of local climbing history without extensive commitment.

Visitors should prepare for a mostly dirt and rock approach, keeping an eye out for the boulder located slightly uphill along the hillside on the right side of the main road. The climbs are situated on the backside, offering subtle shade patterns depending on the time of day. Since this isn’t a strenuous outing, bringing two to three pads should be sufficient for protection, paired with a low key but attentive approach to safety given the block’s fractured nature.

While Broken Boulder does not host a wide variety of route styles or high-end difficulty, its charm lies in the opportunity to immerse oneself in the slower rhythms of outdoor climbing. It’s a place to fine-tune technique on shorter problems, enjoy the company of fellow climbers at a comfortable distance, and take in sweeping views of the Santa Barbara area. For locals and visitors alike, the Broken Boulder is a practical, scenic spot that balances accessibility with the satisfaction of genuine outdoor bouldering.

Climber Safety

Rock on the backside of Broken Boulder is fractured and somewhat broken, so cautious foothold testing and careful pad placement are recommended. The approach is simple but watch footing on loose gravel patches near the boulder.

Area Details

TypeBoulder
Pitchesbouldering
Length10 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the main road past Pissoir Boulder, avoid the descent to Cracked Boulder and scan the right hillside about 100 feet up for the boulder.

Bring two to three pads to ensure solid protection on the small boulder.

Best climbing seasons fall between late fall and early spring when the rock stays dry and friction is optimal.

Keep an eye on the weather forecast as rain is uncommon but possible, and the boulder’s backside can retain moisture.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbing at Broken Boulder centers on V-scale problems around V2, with Bacon Pancakes standing out as a classic. The grades feel approachable, making this boulder suited for intermediate climbers or those stepping up from beginner levels. Unlike more aggressive or sandbagged areas nearby, these problems offer straightforward challenges without exaggeration of difficulty.

Gear Requirements

This small boulder is easy to access with a short roadside approach. Two to three bouldering pads provide sufficient protection for the short traverses and problems on fractured rock backsides.

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Tags

short problems
traverses
fine friction
easy approach
quaint
lightly trafficked