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Exploring Piecemeal on Mt. Thorodin: A Compact Trad Challenge in Golden Gate Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
wide crack
undercling
face holds
traverse
slab
Golden Gate Canyon
trad
single pitch
Length: 130 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Piecemeal
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Piecemeal carves a unique, single-pitch trad route on Mt. Thorodin’s second buttress, blending subtle features into a compelling variation near For Love of Mothernot. It’s a brief but technical climb that appeals to those seeking controlled movement and thoughtful protection placement in Golden Gate Canyon State Park."

Exploring Piecemeal on Mt. Thorodin: A Compact Trad Challenge in Golden Gate Canyon

Piecemeal offers an adventurous, off-the-beaten-path trad climb tucked into the rugged contours of Mt. Thorodin’s second buttress, inside Colorado’s Golden Gate Canyon State Park. This single-pitch route, though brief at 130 feet, demands thoughtful movement across discontinuous features that weave a distinctive path left of the better-known For Love of Mothernot route. From the moment you leave the parking area, the approach sets the tone: a steep, rocky scramble climbing 60 feet along a third- to fourth-class ramp directs you towards a large tree, where the first belay awaits—your base camp for the climb itself.

The route then challenges you with a leftward traverse of about 40 feet across easy terrain, but the fun really begins at the flakes. Here, subtle holds demand precision — a couple of insecure moves lead into a tricky undercling that dares you to commit. From there, a left-side traverse splits along the undercling to meet a wide crack. The progression shifts as you lieback up that crack on a reliable edge tucked deeper in the formation, testing your balance and technique.

A ten-foot traverse left moves you onto a slab that, while free of gear placements, requires confidence and careful footwork on face holds before reaching the final belay with two bolts. Protection consists of a single set of cams up to #4.5 Camalot plus wires, aligning well with the route’s varied but manageable demands.

Golden Gate Canyon State Park’s Mt. Thorodin area presents a blend of solitude, granite texture, and forested surroundings, pulling you away from busier climbs and into a natural setting that feels earned with each step. Weather and light play a key role here; early spring to fall grants the best climbing windows, while late afternoon shade eases the heat in summer.

Plan your approach with sturdy shoes tuned for scrambling, keep hydration plentiful, and prepare for the careful gear placements essential to mastering this line. Piecemeal is a genuine invitation to explore unconventional holds and movements within Colorado’s rich climbing landscape—a solid choice for climbers looking to add a subtle variation to their trad repertoire without overextending distance or complexity.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose stone around the belay tree and flakes on the traverse; the slab section at the top lacks gear and calls for confident climbing on clean face holds. The approach involves scrambling over rocky terrain requiring attentive footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the CMC route staging area; scramble up a third- to fourth-class ramp to reach the base tree belay.

Bring gear suitable for a variety of placements, especially large cams and wires.

The slab near the top lacks protection—focus on secure footwork and balance.

Plan your climb during spring to fall for optimal weather and daylight, avoiding hot midday sun.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Piecemeal offers a moderate challenge with some unusual moves arising from its discontinuous sequence. The route’s lieback crack and delicate traverses add complexity, making it feel a bit stiffer than a standard 5.8. Compared to nearby For Love of Mothernot, it demands more careful planning of protection and balance.

Gear Requirements

A full set of cams up to #4.5 Camalot along with wires is ideal for this climb. The route features distinct cracks and flakes requiring well-placed protection, though the final slab section demands careful footwork without gear opportunities.

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Tags

wide crack
undercling
face holds
traverse
slab
Golden Gate Canyon
trad
single pitch