"Narrows - Right is an evolving dry-tooling crag in California’s Eastern Sierra, offering shorter, lower-angle granite routes away from crowded ice climbs. Featuring classic lines like Jango Fett and TK421, it invites climbers to sharpen alpine tool skills amid rugged and accessible terrain."
Carved along the right wall of the Narrows in California, Narrows - Right presents a compelling new destination for dry-tooling enthusiasts eager to escape the crowded ice climbs nearby. This stepped, broken granite cliff reveals a raw and increasingly popular winter climbing playground unlike the steep, overhanging ice walls many associate with the region. Instead, you'll find shorter routes under 100 feet that reward careful footwork and a versatile approach—here the angles lean toward moderate, letting climbers sharpen their alpine skills on rock as much as steel. The granite’s textured, fractured surface challenges climbers in a way that feels grounded and approachable, where precision and adaptability take precedence over brute strength.
The evolution of this area owes credit to a small but growing community of dedicated climbers, including Ian M, Thomas G, Luke L, and Jed P—pioneers blending dry-tooling techniques with ethics that allow personal style to flourish. As the right side of the Narrows develops, it offers a fresh avenue for those seeking a solid alpine workout with the chance to refine dry-tool movement in a less congested setting. Though the rating system for these climbs is still tentative, the vibe here is open, experimental, and welcoming, true to the spirit of Californian climbing.
Approaching Narrows - Right involves following the well-known ice climbing trail from Poole Power Plant toward Chouinard Falls. About halfway up the canyon, you'll find the dry-tooling cliffs that break from typical frozen water lines. The terrain is rugged but manageable—expect a steep hike with forested terrain yielding to exposed granite faces. At 8,000 feet elevation, winter conditions can vary, so check weather closely and prepare accordingly for sudden change. Unlike the classic ice routes, this crag is a refuge for steel-bound climbers when the frozen water gets too packed upstream.
Among the climbs established here, Jango Fett ranks highly with a 4.5-star rating, delivering solid, enjoyable sequences on granite that test the balance between technique and strength. TK421, rated at 3.5 stars, offers a slightly easier alternative while still demanding attention to detail and foot placement. Both routes stand as pillars of this burgeoning dry-tooling spot, promising quality challenges without overwhelming commitment.
For gear, a mixed rack tailored to dry-tooling is essential. Bring tools capable of hooking small granite features with confidence alongside your alpine boots designed for granite edges. A keen sense for route beta and flexible movement will serve you better than brute force here. The protection is variable since many climbs are newly developed; route bolting and natural protection may be limited or modest, so be prepared for some adventurous placements.
Timing your climb is key—the walls face shade during much of winter given the canyon’s orientation, making crisp, sunny days the gold standard for comfortable climbing. Prime climbing season lines up with colder months when ice traffic increases elsewhere but the rock stays climbable with dry tools. Weather averages trend toward stable but unpredictable mountain winters; pack layers and plan for quick shifts in conditions.
Downclimbing or rappelling options are straightforward but require attention. Hikers should come equipped with ropes and rigging know-how, as retreat routes may include exposed sections and uneven footing. Always maintain situational awareness and respect the alpine environment’s shifting moods.
Narrows - Right stretches the boundaries of dry-tooling in California’s Eastern Sierra, offering a distinctive blend of granite terrain within the shadow of iconic ice climbs. Whether you’re looking to cross-train dry-tool skills or expand your winter climbing repertoire, this area invites exploration without the typical congestion, serving up a unique challenge for those ready to embrace a different kind of alpine edge.
Nearby Lee Vining anchors the region with welcoming amenities, positioning you well for a weekend of mixed terrain adventure. From the forested approach to the granite pitches themselves, Narrows - Right makes itself known as an up-and-coming alpine venue worthy of your gear and attention.
Watch for variable rock quality on fractured granite and be prepared for rapid weather changes at 8,000 feet elevation. The routes are short but protection is sparse—ensure solid anchor placement and bring full alpine safety gear.
Follow the ice climbing approach from Poole Power Plant toward Chouinard Falls to reach the crag.
Winter months offer the best conditions when ice crowds upstream are at their peak.
Expect shorter climbs generally under 30 meters with moderate angles.
Bring ropes and rappel gear for safe descent; downclimbing can be exposed.
Dry-tooling gear required; bring ice tools suited for granite, alpine boots, and a mixed rack for variable protection. Prepare for limited fixed anchors and adventurous gear placements.
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