"Inner Gorge in California’s Owens River Gorge offers climbers a remote, less crowded experience complete with steep technical climbs and a rugged backdrop of old mines and industrial ruins. With challenging routes like Dr Claw and Klingon, the area is a magnet for climbers pursuing precision and power on demanding rock."
Inner Gorge in California’s Owens River Gorge presents a compelling slice of climbing adventure for those seeking less trodden paths and heady technical routes. Situated at 5,740 feet elevation, this section of the gorge is defined by its narrower walls and sparse crowds, especially in the northern reaches. Its remoteness is punctuated by relics of an industrial past — old mines and abandoned buildings that remind climbers of the rugged history carved into these cliffs. The quiet atmosphere here offers a welcome contrast to the more popular climbing zones, inviting climbers to immerse themselves in a raw, focused climbing experience away from the bustle.
Accessing Inner Gorge calls for some planning. Climbers aiming for the northern sections and the Narrows will find the upper approach most efficient. For destinations on the southern side such as Dilithium Crystal, Eldorado Roof, and the Mothership wall, the central approach is more suitable. The Mothership stands out as a highlight in this area, known for its exceptional rock quality and some of the most challenging technical climbs available. Toward the southern expanse, steeper faces reward those with the technique and strength for higher-grade routes.
Classic climbs here offer an exciting and varied selection. Among them are Blood Sugar Sex Magik (5.10d), Escapade (5.11a), and Towering Inferno (5.11b). Highly rated routes like Dr Claw (5.11d), Klingon (5.12a), and Phasers on Stun (5.12c) provide serious allure for seasoned climbers hungry for confronting their limits on rock that demands finesse and power. Climbers chasing bold lines will also appreciate Excelsior (5.13a), a challenging ascent that has earned its notable place in the gorge’s growing reputation.
Weather here varies throughout the year, with optimal climbing windows usually falling outside heavy precipitation months. The gorge’s orientation means sun exposure changes between upper and central access points, so timing your climb for early mornings or late afternoons in summer can make a big difference in comfort and rock temperature.
Pragmatic preparation is key to a safe and rewarding trip. The area currently faces challenges with bridge access as LADWP works with local groups on liability issues, meaning climbers should respect closures and find alternate crossings where possible. Parking off pavement and practicing diligent leave-no-trace habits preserves access and keeps the area welcoming for everyone. Two outhouses exist at the southern end, including near the notorious old power plant – a reminder to pack out some essentials and maintain sanitary respect.
Protection on routes here leans toward technical trad, with some sport climbs available. Bringing a solid trad rack with a range of cams and nuts is advised, especially for the more committing lines on the Mothership and Eldorado Roof. For sport climbs, draws and a helmet are essential, as some rock sections show loose patches. Approaches vary in quality but range from well-maintained trails to rougher terrain near historic sites, so sturdy hiking boots and navigation confidence are needed.
Descending the climbs generally involves downclimbing easier terrain or rappelling depending on the route. Familiarity with anchor-building on varied rock and managing rope drag will smooth transitions and keep climbers efficient on the descent.
Inner Gorge represents a unique blend of quiet wilderness and bold climbing challenges inside the expansive Owens River Gorge. Its blend of history, steep technical routes, and isolated ambiance invites adventurers ready to carry their own gear, gauge conditions carefully, and savor a climb largely untouched by crowds. Whether you seek the precise crux of a 5.12 route or simply wish to explore a rugged corner of California climbing, Inner Gorge rewards preparation with an authentic and demanding climbing experience.
The narrow gorge walls and old mining structures mean climbers should be mindful of loose rock and terrain hazards. Bridge closures require finding safe alternate river crossings. Be prepared for rugged approaches and variable weather, especially in shoulder seasons. Always carry waste removal supplies and respect fragile access corridors.
Use the upper approach for access to the northern Narrows; central approach works best for the southern sectors like Dilithium and Eldorado.
Respect current bridge closures – find alternate river crossings to avoid fines or access issues.
Park off pavement and avoid overnight camping at access points to protect the fragile land.
Pack out all trash and utilize outhouses near the power plant to maintain good tangling etiquette.
Climbers will want a full rack of cams and nuts for the trad routes, with draws and helmets necessary for some sport pitches. The rock quality on the Mothership demands careful protection placement and awareness of some loose sections. Two outhouses are available near the southern end, but packing out trash and respecting closures is critical due to ongoing LADWP bridge issues.
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