"Exorcist challenges climbers with finger-sized jams and a committing face sequence, all atop Joshua Tree’s famed granite. This single-pitch trad climb blends precision and protection, offering a compact, technical outing in the heart of the desert."
Exorcist offers a single-pitch, focused test of crack climbing skills set against the iconic granite walls of Joshua Tree National Park's Sheep Pass Area. From the moment you engage the initial thin crack, a tactile challenge awaits: precise hand jams and delicate liebacks stretch upward on a smooth, narrow seam. The rock demands attention—wires and small cams comfortably secure your protection as the crack tightens and thinning placements amplify the sense of exposure. As the crack fizzles out, the route shifts character, guiding you toward an overhanging face guarded by a bolt. This move, steeper and more technical, requires solid footwork and commitment, with the bolt providing a reassuring safeguard. Reaching the top, you’ll find anchors fixed to rap with a single rope, making descent straightforward. The approach is moderate, cutting through desert scrub and rocky terrain typical of Joshua Tree’s high desert environment. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon can make a difference—shade from the east-facing wall offers welcome relief during warmer months. Remember to bring a rack geared up to 2-inch cams, as well as standard stacked wires and nuts to cover the crack’s varying widths. This climb rewards those who appreciate technical finesse over brute force, making it a favorite among local trad enthusiasts seeking a concise but satisfying outing in one of California’s premier outdoor climbing destinations. Hydration is key here; the dry desert air will quickly sap reserves, so plan accordingly. The granite’s texture, combined with the route’s moderate length and sustained moves, lends itself equally to climbers building crack proficiency or seasoned climbers looking to sharpen precision. After topping out, scout the descent anchors carefully and double-check your rigging—this wall’s remote nature means self-sufficiency is essential. Exorcist stands as both an approachable yet engaging classic in the Hall of Horrors sector, consistently drawing climbers who enjoy a well-protected line steeped in technical rockcraft.
Be mindful that the ledge below the anchors is exposed and narrow; double-check all anchor points before rappelling. Also, the rock can feel slick in the face section, so secure placements and clipped protection are essential to manage potential falls safely.
Start early to avoid the desert heat and catch the wall’s morning shade.
Bring extra finger-sized cams and wires for tight, thin placements.
Confirm your rappel setup at the ledge before descending to ensure safety.
Stay hydrated—water sources are not available near the route.
Protection relies on a well-rounded trad rack including wires, small to medium cams up to 2 inches, plus a bolt for the face section, and fixed two-bolt anchors for rappelling with a single rope.
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