HomeClimbingExit Stage Right / The L Word

Exit Stage Right / The L Word: A Direct Trad Route in Mission Gorge

San Diego, California United States
trad
right traverse
single pitch
medium protection
bolted anchor
sunny wall
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Exit Stage Right / The L Word
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A concise trad climb with a rightwards traverse beneath a low roof, Exit Stage Right offers a practical intro to Mission Gorge's Main Wall. Ideal for climbers looking to warm up or access tougher neighboring routes."

Exit Stage Right / The L Word: A Direct Trad Route in Mission Gorge

Exit Stage Right, also known as The L Word, offers a brief but practical introduction to trad climbing within San Diego County’s rugged Mission Gorge. This single-pitch, 25-foot climb challenges climbers with a straightforward rightward traverse under a small roof, demanding precise gear placements on medium-sized protection. The route’s pared-down nature doesn’t inspire awe through length or difficulty but serves as an essential stepping stone for those venturing into the adjacent, more challenging lines like Gallwas and Nutcracker.

Approaching the Main Wall in Mission Gorge places you within a raw, sun-baked cliffside that tests your approach footing on rocky paths scented faintly by sage and rattled by dry breezes. The wall itself catches the afternoon sun, warming its cracks and faces—ideal for climbs later in the day. This route keeps things practical: a single pitch that stretches just beyond 20 feet, framed by modest rock features that force thoughtful gear placement, rewarding climbers who can read the rock’s texture and subtly changing angles.

While Exit Stage Right doesn’t boast high star ratings, its value is in the access it grants to surrounding, more technical climbs. The bolted anchor offers a secure setup for lowering or rappelling, carefully installed to withstand the local weather and usage. Experienced trad climbers expecting a brief warm-up or a cliffside introduction will find this route meets those goals without complication.

For planning your day, pack a standard rack featuring medium-sized protection—nothing overly large, but plenty to protect the traverse under the roof. Footwear with solid edging will help maintain balance along the rightwards movement, and a moderate level of confidence in placing gear will go a long way here. The proximity to San Diego means you can budget your time efficiently, arriving early to avoid midday heat and savor the striking canyon views before and after your climb.

Summing up, Exit Stage Right / The L Word presents an accessible trad climb that favors precision over brawn. It’s a practical choice for climbers working through the Main Wall’s offerings or looking for a straightforward project in a sunlit canyon. While short, the route embodies the essential qualities of trad cracking and gear management, all set against the enduring California landscape.

Climber Safety

Approach carefully as loose rock is common on the trail leading to Main Wall. The short traverse under the roof requires solid footwork and thoughtful gear placement; avoid rushing to maintain safety. Use the bolted anchor to minimize risk when descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the heat on the sun-exposed wall.

Bring medium-sized gear; large cams aren’t necessary.

Watch your footing on the sometimes loose approach trail.

Use the bolted anchor for a safe, controlled rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade fits comfortably for most intermediate trad climbers, with a crux centered on managing the rightward traverse and confident gear placement. It leans slightly soft compared to other local lines but demands respect for its short, technical moves beneath the roof. In the context of San Diego climbs, it serves as a solid, low-commitment climb that prepares you for lengthier, more complex routes nearby.

Gear Requirements

Medium sized protection is required for this climb, with a bolted anchor installed for safe top-out or rappel. Ideal rack includes cams and nuts suited for small to medium cracks.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Exit Stage Right / The L Word and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
right traverse
single pitch
medium protection
bolted anchor
sunny wall