5.9, Trad
Twentynine Palms
California ,United States
"Exit Stage Right delivers a classic Joshua Tree trad climb characterized by bold moves on authentic desert rock. With an engaging lieback start and a compact crux atop a false summit slab, this single pitch offers a blend of technical skill and captivating desert views."
Exit Stage Right offers a quintessential Joshua Tree trad climbing experience that blends commitment with classic crack and face climbing. Situated on the Southwest Face of Escape Rock, this single-pitch route immediately challenges with a high-step lieback and mantle to reach the first bolt, demanding precise footwork and calm control—especially for those easing into the park’s bold, old-school style. The rock’s texture, rough and dry, grips your fingertips tightly as you ascend through a series of three more bolts, moving steadily upward but with enough complexity to keep your focus sharp. The line shifts slightly right and climbs more directly than older guidebooks suggest, guiding you toward a false summit slab that catches rays of midday sun and offers a brief, breath-catching pause.
From this ledge, Exit Stage Right tests your balance on a subtle move up to an ancient quarter-inch bolt, an artifact almost as much as a protection point, before you engage a short boulder problem leading to the true summit. The final scramble onto the top is gritty and exposed, rewarding with crisp desert panoramas framed by jagged rock forms and the promise of solitude. Gear requirements are simple but specific: pack four quickdraws for the bolts, complemented by traditional protection including Camalots in sizes 1 to 3, or medium to large stoppers to set solid anchors on the ledge.
Approach from Barker Dam is straightforward, following well-maintained trails through Joshua Tree’s iconic, sunbathed landscape. The rock's southwest aspect means afternoon climbs benefit from warming sun, while early mornings remain cool and shaded. Visitors should plan water, sun protection, and sturdy shoes, as the terrain underfoot is cobbled and steep in parts. Exit Stage Right appeals to climbers comfortable with moderate runouts and classic desert crack climbing, offering an accessible yet memorable introduction to Joshua Tree’s bold sandstone formations. Its moderate 5.9 rating holds firm here, presenting a straightforward challenge with a physical crux that demands confidence.
In sum, Escape Rock’s Southwestern Face invites climbers into a tactile dialogue with the desert—a route that pushes you up, tests your smarts with old bolts and rock placements, and ends with a rewarding summit above the sprawling high desert landscape. Whether as a first pitch or part of a larger adventure, Exit Stage Right embodies the practical and thrilling spirit of climbing in Joshua Tree.
Watch for loose holds near the false summit slab and the final boulder move; some bolts are vintage and may warrant back-up protection. The rock can be brittle in spots, so commit carefully to moves, especially in warmer temperatures when friction can vary.
Start early to avoid the midday desert heat, especially in summer.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber for secure footing on the brittle rock slabs.
Stay aware of loose rock near the false summit slab, especially on the final boulder move.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection for the approach and climb.
Carry 4 quickdraws for the fixed bolts, plus a rack with Camalots sizes 1 through 3 or medium to large stoppers to build reliable anchors at the ledge.
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