"Exit Stage Left combines a wide, deliberate crack climb with plenty of solid stances, challenging climbers with technical jams and laybacks on Scout Rock’s West face. Perfect for those seeking a focused trad outing close to Lyons, Colorado."
Exit Stage Left offers an engaging trad climbing experience on the rugged West face of Scout Rock, a distinctive sandstone formation cradled within the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This route commands attention with its inviting wide crack, demanding both strategic movement and steady patience. The approach to the crack requires a thoughtful start slightly left of the main line to avoid a tricky scramble, setting the tone for a climb that blends technical precision with natural flow. Climbers will find generous stances spaced throughout the crack, allowing moments of rest amid dynamic jams and layback maneuvers that test your crack climbing skills without overwhelming difficulty.
The crack itself presents a straightforward challenge: wide jams directly into the crack and a parallel thin seam to the right accessible from the top rope anchor at unpainted chains. This dual option caters well to climbers eager to push their comfort zone or hone their technique. Ratings hover between 5.8 and 5.9, depending largely on how one tackles the crack—whether straight-in jams or sustained laybacks. The consensus leans toward a solid 5.9, emphasizing subtle power and finesse.
Protection is an essential consideration for Exit Stage Left. The wide crack necessitates multiple wide camming devices capable of fitting generous placements, complemented by smaller stoppers for variety. The reliable chain anchor assures a safe top-rope option on the thin crack, providing additional training opportunity or a bailout plan. This section’s anchors reflect experienced bolting without paint, blending well into the sandstone’s natural look.
Scout Rock's location within the larger St. Vrain Canyons offers climbers a quiet yet spirited gateway into Colorado’s Front Range climbing scene. The immediate surroundings echo the dry, exposed character of the West face, with light winds often sweeping the canyon, ensuring good rock drying times and stable conditions. The area's compact size makes it a popular day destination while still feeling sufficiently private for those seeking focus and calm.
Climbers approaching Exit Stage Left should plan for a moderate hike to the base, traversing typical Front Range scrub and mixed terrain, with GPS coordinates handy for pinpointing access points. The rock’s west-facing aspect catches the afternoon sun, making early mornings or late afternoons ideal windows, especially during Colorado’s hotter months. Fall and spring offer the best overall climbing conditions, with cooler temperatures enhancing friction and reducing fatigue.
Descent is straightforward: climbers can downclimb or rappel from the anchor on single ropes, though caution is advised on loose sections near the top. Carrying a lightweight rack ensures ready protection for any unpredictable placements encountered during the climb.
Exit Stage Left rewards those ready to commit to a gritty, movement-rich crack climb in a setting that balances solitude with easy access. Whether you are refining your crack technique or seeking a dependable 5.9 trad outing away from crowds, this route delivers a pure, unvarnished taste of Colorado’s sandstone challenges.
Loose rock near the approach scramble requires cautious foot placement. The sandstone can be brittle in spots; avoid overloading gear placements. Downclimbing from the anchor is possible but watch for unstable rock and use a rappel if uncertain.
Start the approach slightly left of the route to avoid scrambling hazards.
Bring a full rack of wide cams and double up on sizes if possible.
Climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid the strongest sun on the West face.
Check anchors before trusting them; chains are unpainted but well maintained.
Several wide camming units are necessary to protect the broad crack placements, along with a selection of smaller stoppers. Expect to place gear carefully in sandy sandstone; the fixed chain anchors on top provide a safe top rope setup option.
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