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Exemplary Behavior on Gem Lake Wall: A Classic Trad Climb in Estes Park

Estes Park, Colorado United States
right-facing dihedral
v-slot
trad protection
multi-pitch
Colorado granite
Lumpy Ridge
family-friendly
moderate
Length: 240 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Exemplary Behavior
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Exemplary Behavior offers two solid pitches on Gem Lake Wall’s southern face, weaving through dihedrals and a distinct V-slot. This trad climb balances accessible crack climbing with comfortable protection and a scenic Estes Park backdrop, ideal for trad climbers seeking a manageable yet engaging outing."

Exemplary Behavior on Gem Lake Wall: A Classic Trad Climb in Estes Park

Exemplary Behavior is a straightforward trad climb on the southern edge of Gem Lake Wall, tucked within the rugged embrace of Lumpy Ridge. This route offers two pitches that combine manageable challenges with classic Rocky Mountain granite features, making it an appealing choice for climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills without an overwhelming commitment. From the first steps up a right-facing dihedral to the final ascent through a distinctive V-slot, the climb invites climbers into a rhythm of movement that balances effort with clear, comfortable rests.

The initial pitch begins with a low-angle dihedral that twists and bends while passing through two steeper sections. Early on, a well-placed pro placement around a bulge keeps the rope from dragging, giving solidity to your ascent. This section, rated 5.7, rewards steady footwork and offers good protection anchored by large wires and a red Alien. The belay station provides a secure platform to recalibrate before moving upward.

Pitch two steps up into more varied terrain. You'll skirt a large roof feature, bypassing a tempting but sparse protection sloping face to the left by traveling right. This maneuver guides you into a V-shaped slot that tests finger strength and balance. Climbers with smaller hands might find the finger cracks more accessible here, as the crux eases once the route rounds over the dome-like top. The pitch rates at 5.9, and your belay anchors tap natural threads, solid and reliable. Note that if the V-slot feels uninspired, easier exits to the right provide alternative top-out options without sacrificing safety.

After topping out, descent involves a careful maneuver east into a brushy gully. Near its base, the terrain cliffs out, so a short move—about 80 feet skier’s right—finds a couple of downclimbs and scrambles that bring you safely back to the trailhead. This approach requires attention to route-finding more than technical difficulty, making it practical for those familiar with basic off-route navigation.

Gear-wise, a rack up to a #3.5 Camalot is sufficient, and hexes aren’t necessary, simplifying your haul. The rock’s quality is typical high-country granite—solid but requiring attention to placements through changes in angle and crack size. Protection placements are generally straightforward, with the crux areas offering well-placed gear opportunities.

Exemplary Behavior is modest in length at 240 feet, but it encapsulates the essence of Lumpy Ridge trad climbing: accessible yet engaging. This route’s lean star rating reflects its approachable nature rather than lack of character. It’s an excellent climb to build confidence in crack techniques while appreciating sweeping views of Estes Park valley and the alpine environment that shapes this granite bastion.

Plan your ascent for mornings or early afternoons to avoid the afternoon sun which can make the southern walls hot in summer. Spring and fall offer prime conditions when cooler temperatures highlight the rock’s texture and grip. Footwear with sticky rubber and solid edging capabilities will help negotiate both the dihedrals’ steeper transitions and the delicate moves around the roof and V-slot.

Exemplary Behavior calls out to climbers eager to engage a classic Colorado trad experience without committing to long, complicated routes. With practical protection, manageable pitches, and an inviting setting, it’s a rewarding way to explore Lumpy Ridge’s lesser-traveled corners and sharpen your trad skills surrounded by the stirring alpine backdrop.

Climber Safety

Protection is generally reliable, but be mindful of the bulge early on pitch one where careful pro placement is key to managing rope drag. The descent route involves brushy gullies and loose rock; stay cautious and plan your exit route to avoid cliff bands. Seasonal hazard includes summer heat on the southern aspect, so hydrate and time your climb accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length240 feet

Local Tips

Place pro low on pitch one to keep rope drag minimal around the bulge.

Avoid the sloping face left on pitch two; protection is sparse and the right traverse is safer.

Descent involves moving skier’s right into downclimbs—stay aware of brush and uneven terrain.

Earliest starts help beat the midday heat on the southern wall, especially in summer months.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.9, this climb's difficulty lies in short, technical sections rather than sustained moves. The crux at the V-slot requires precise finger strength and balance but is approachable once the movement is dialed. For climbers familiar with classic Lumpy Ridge routes, this feels like a solid mid-grade challenge without being overly stiff, offering good value for the moderate rating.

Gear Requirements

Requires a standard trad rack up to #3.5 Camalot; hexes are not necessary. Large wires and a red Alien are particularly useful for the belay and protecting the bulge low on pitch one.

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Tags

right-facing dihedral
v-slot
trad protection
multi-pitch
Colorado granite
Lumpy Ridge
family-friendly
moderate