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Excuuuse Me: A Steep and Reachy Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Joshua Tree, California United States
finger crack
trad
single pitch
southwest aspect
desert
Joshua Tree
reachy moves
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Excuuuse Me
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Excuuuse Me challenges climbers with a reachy, steep start that flows into a finger crack and horizontal breaks on Mistaken Rock’s southwest corner. This single-pitch trad climb packs technical moves and solid protection into a concise 70-foot line at Joshua Tree National Park."

Excuuuse Me: A Steep and Reachy Joshua Tree Trad Climb

Excuuuse Me carves a precise line up the southwest corner of Mistaken Rock, inviting climbers into a dynamic encounter with Joshua Tree’s iconic granite. The route demands attention from the first lean-in move: a reachy, steep start that presses you rightward and upward into a shallow, graceful dihedral. This initial scramble teases out full-body engagement, requiring both reach and body tension to establish a secure position. As the climb unfolds, the narrow crack transitions from a curving seam to a thin, vertical finger crack, sharpening the focus on hand jams and delicate footwork. The granite here feels alive—cool to the touch in the morning shade yet warming as the sun arcs across the rock. Approaching the top, the climb opens slightly to a series of horizontal breaks that offer rest and strategic placements before slanting up and right to the finish.

At 70 feet and just one pitch, Excuuuse Me is concise but packed with thoughtful movement that challenges your ability to read subtle holds and balance. Protection calls for standard trad gear up to 2 inches, with an emphasis on careful placements in the shallow dihedral and the thin crack section. The fixed anchor provides reassurance to finish confidently.

The approach is straightforward, crossing sandy, bush-strewn flats into the heart of Wonderland North, where Mistaken Rock stands solitary and proud. Early mornings present cooler temperatures and quieter conditions, while midday brings warmer rock temperatures that help dry out the crack. Although short, this climb demands precise technique and steady nerves—an ideal first trad climb to sharpen skills or a solid warm-up for longer routes nearby.

Mistaken Rock’s southwest aspect means afternoon shade arrives late, so it's wise to start climbs here mid-morning or early afternoon to enjoy optimal grip and warmth. Water and sun protection are essential as Joshua Tree’s desert environment can dehydrate even the most seasoned climbers swiftly. Nearby Joshua Tree town offers ample supplies post-climb, but days on the rock require self-sufficiency.

Excuuuse Me carries an unassuming allure—modest in length but rewarding in its technical demands and classic Joshua Tree setting. Whether you’re stepping into trad climbing or seeking a specific finger crack challenge, this route offers a blend of engaging movement and reliable protection just steps from the desert’s wide-open silence.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose dirt around the base and ensure careful foot placements on the approach. The rock quality is good but occasional flaky edges near the top call for precise handholds. Desert conditions demand sun protection and early hydration planning.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start mid-morning to catch cool shade on the southwest corner before the sun warms the rock.

Bring a rack with cams from micro to 2 inches for smooth protection placements.

Stay hydrated via ample water; desert air quickly saps moisture.

Select shoes with sticky rubber for maximum purchase on slightly smoothed granite.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels fair but leans toward the upper end for this grade. The initial reachy moves on steep terrain add an element of sustained effort, with a crux found where the crack narrows. Protection is straightforward but requires confidence in gear placements, making it feel slightly stiffer than a casual 5.9. Compared to nearby Joshua Tree 5.9 routes, Excuuuse Me demands better reach and crack technique.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to 2-inch cams is sufficient, focusing on solid placements in the shallow dihedral and thin vertical crack. The anchor is gear-based and reliable.

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Tags

finger crack
trad
single pitch
southwest aspect
desert
Joshua Tree
reachy moves