Eumenides is a demanding six-pitch trad climb that rises prominently along the western edge of Sundance Buttress on Lumpy Ridge, delivering roughly 1,000 feet of varied climbing through a bold, rugged landscape. The route kicks off with a somewhat gritty approach, starting just beyond a massive dihedral that stretches up the cliff face, marking the climb’s unmistakable entrance. At first, you’ll scramble up solid third-class terrain, balancing on rough slabs and loose ledges until you reach your first belay beneath the dihedral. This section serves as a warm-up but requires vigilance, as the rock’s texture demands focus and steady footwork. Once in the dihedral, the route opens up to wider cracks and steeper moves that push your technique and confidence.

Pitch two provides a chance to rest your arms while navigating a rightward traverse that links scattered features, drawing you back toward the main dihedral line. Here, protection placements are straightforward but require a keen eye to keep gear snug and reliable. The climbing eases a touch with moderate crack climbing and face holds, but don’t let the lower ratings fool you—exposure and the vertical angle call for solid mental composure.

The third pitch intensifies exposure and technical demands. Instead of the larger crack to the left, the climb veers toward a subtle, shallow right-facing dihedral. This pitch challenges you to move cleanly across a vertical wall, threading short cracks and delicate edges with careful precision. At about 100 feet up, the route angles leftward onto a tiny, exposed belay ledge that invites a pause to soak in broad views of the Estes Park Valley below.

Pitch four moves right through a right crack, then ascends a ramp system toward a comfortable belay platform. The climbing here has a relaxed feel but remains engaging, demanding consistent footwork and smooth gear placements. Pitch five is the route’s crux: a large left-facing corner which requires negotiating a roof on either side with well-protected 5.8 moves. This sequence requires attention and technique, rewarding you with a ledge that feels like a small accomplishment in itself.

The final pitch climbs a short 40-foot section to the summit area. From here, a careful eastward scramble leads you away from the cliff edge and toward the well-trodden descent route.

Protection on Eumenides calls for a standard trad rack to double #4 Friends, reflecting the range of crack sizes encountered. While fixed gear is scarce, placements tend to hold well if sized and placed methodically. Given the length and verticality of the climb, bringing sturdy shoes for technical edging and a helmet for loose rock is strongly advised.

The approach to Sundance Buttress is moderate but requires route-finding through mixed terrain typical of Lumpy Ridge. Expect a 20 to 30-minute hike under Ponderosa pines, with rocky outcrops and occasional scrub oak. Bear awareness and weather considerations are essential, as afternoon thunderstorms can build quickly in this part of Colorado.

Eumenides attracts climbers who appreciate long, moderately challenging climbs with a classic alpine feel. It’s a route that builds momentum, offering increasingly engaging pitches as you ascend. While the grade stays mostly in the 5.7 to 5.8 range, sustained exposure and the line’s length will test your endurance and focus.

This climb’s west-facing wall sees the afternoon sun, making spring and early summer ideal times to avoid excessive heat closer to midday. Fall provides cooler temps and good rock conditions, but be prepared for swift weather changes.

Descent is straightforward albeit exposed—rappelling is not required; most climbers carefully downclimb eastward and follow cairned paths back toward the approach trail. Take care near ledges and loose rock during your descent to maintain safety.

In sum, Eumenides is a longstanding favorite for climbers seeking a solid trad outing with varied crack and face climbing, climbing rhythm, and rewarding views against the backdrop of Estes Park’s rugged high country. Solid preparation, careful gear choices, and attention to alpine conditions will help you make the most of this unforgettable ridge climb.