"Euellogy stands as a solid entry to Yosemite’s classic crack climbs, inviting trad climbers to test their jamming skills on a clean 5.10a crack with a distinctive bulge crux. Offering secure protection and an engaging single pitch, it’s an ideal route to build confidence in one of climbing’s iconic landscapes."
Euellogy offers an immersive introduction to Yosemite’s renowned crack climbing scene, presenting a straightforward yet satisfying challenge for those stepping into the 5.10 realm. Located deep within the Mojo Tooth Area, this single-pitch climb engages you with a clean, moderate crack that demands precise jam technique and steady pacing. As the route ascends, the crack widens and narrows in rhythm, culminating in a crux section where it leans into a bulging rooflet that tests your ability to maintain power and balance under pressure. The rock here is classic Yosemite granite—smooth, reliable, and tasting of history from countless climbers before you.
The approach through Lower Merced River Canyon unfolds with rugged terrain, punctuated by the sound of water threading through the valley below. Trees flex gently in the breeze, as if whispering encouragement before you lace your shoes and chalk your hands. Expect the terrain around the base to be uneven, with a short scramble that keeps you honest before finding the established start. Once on the rock, the jams feel trustworthy and secure, ideal for building confidence in traditional protection placements; a single set of cams up to 2.5 inches suffices to shield your ascent.
Though the belay station sits on a ledge that doesn't fully embrace comfort, its position offers a solid vantage point to take stock of the valley’s expansive views, reminding you why climbers have long chased Yosemite’s granite walls. Euellogy’s rating of 5.10a ensures a manageable yet meaningful test, offering a well-defined crux without overwhelming complexity. This route is a practical choice for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills while relishing an iconic Yosemite environment.
When planning your trip, aim for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the harsh midday sun on the mostly southeastern-facing rock. The best season is late spring through early fall, when the weather is stable and the river flows lower, reducing humidity and enhancing grip. Bring reliable hydration and sturdy climbing shoes designed for precision jamming—comfort and control will carry you through the bulge and beyond.
Local advice includes arriving prepared for a short but gritty approach, ensuring your gear rack is well-tuned for moderate crack protection, and pacing your effort through the crux by trusting your jams. Keep an eye on weather forecasts; sudden shifts can affect rock temperature and friction. With careful preparation, this climb promises an accessible taste of Yosemite’s crack climbing heritage, packaged within a landscape that challenges your skill without intimidating your spirit.
The belay ledge is somewhat exposed and not cushioned, so climbers should secure themselves carefully while managing rope and gear. Additionally, the approach involves loose footing—watch your steps and prepare for variable ground.
Approach involves a short scramble—wear sturdy shoes for stability
Start early or late to avoid the sun’s peak heat on the rock
Check weather forecasts; slick rock can make the crux more challenging
Trust your hand and finger jams through the varying crack widths
A single set of cams up to 2.5 inches covers the protection needs, with placements that feel solid and straightforward throughout the climb.
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