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Ethereal at Cenotaph Crag: A Compact, Strenuous Boulder Canyon Trad Challenge

Boulder, Colorado USA
short pitch
trad crack
bolt anchor
technical moves
single pitch
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ethereal
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ethereal challenges climbers with its short yet strenuous crack on Cenotaph Crag. This single-pitch route demands precise footwork and a light rack, making it a solid choice for Boulder Canyon climbers seeking focused trad climbing."

Ethereal at Cenotaph Crag: A Compact, Strenuous Boulder Canyon Trad Challenge

Ethereal stands as a concise but demanding crack on the rugged stone of Cenotaph Crag in Boulder Canyon. Though modest in length at 35 feet, this single-pitch trad route packs a punch with its tight moves and focused protection needs. The rock here wears a dark gray complexion interrupted by a nearby blackish stretch and scattered bolts that belong to adjacent climbs, creating a distinct visual marker for those scanning the wall. As you climb, you'll feel the kind of concentrated effort that catches you off guard—brief but intense, this line asks for precise footwork and confident gear placement.

The route sits just right of the shadowed section and left of the bolt-protected routes Apparition and Phantasm, making it a worthwhile addition if you're already exploring Cenotaph Crag. With limited but reliable protection placements, including a bolt anchor to the right and sturdy trees slightly back from the top, it offers options for a safe finish. Expect to bring a light rack with a handful of cams sufficient to protect the crack's steady progression—there’s no need to overload your gear bag here.

Cenotaph Crag itself is a favored playground for Boulder climbers looking for mid-grade trad lines with a mix of technicality and accessibility. While the approach is straightforward, the rock’s uneven texture demands attention to balance, and a slower pace helps ease the strain. Climbers will appreciate the peacefulness of this less crowded wall, a place where the natural elements—whispers of wind through pines and shifting sunlight over granite—turn every move into an immersive moment.

For those planning a trip, aim to climb Ethereal on crisp mornings or late afternoons when the sun angles softly across the wall, reducing heat and glare. Footwear should favor sticky rubber with solid edging capability to negotiate small footholds. Hydration is essential, especially during warm seasons, as Boulder Canyon’s dry air can sneak up on you. Lastly, topping out requires care; use the bolt anchors or make a controlled downclimb back to solid footing. Ethereal’s brief yet powerful pitch offers both a technical probe into trad climbing skills and a refreshing detour when visiting this iconic Colorado canyon.

Climber Safety

Although the pitch is short, protection is limited to a few cam placements and bolt anchors. Be sure to inspect gear placements carefully. The topout area features not only bolts but also trees that serve as anchor options—descend with caution, avoiding loose rock near the exit.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Bring sticky rubber shoes with good edging capability for technical foot placements.

Plan to climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sunlight and overheating on the rock.

Carry sufficient water—dry canyon air can dehydrate you quickly.

Use the bolt anchors or topout trees for safe descent; avoid scrambling over loose rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Ethereal leans into a somewhat strenuous effort for its short length. The climbing feels tighter and more physical than average 5.9 routes, with a cruxy section that demands solid technique and composure. Compared to nearby trad climbs in Boulder Canyon, this line is compact but punchy, ideal for climbers ready for a brief, intense test.

Gear Requirements

Light rack including a few cams covers the protection needs well; no need to carry extensive gear. Bolt anchors are present to the right, and trees provide backup anchors at the top.

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Tags

short pitch
trad crack
bolt anchor
technical moves
single pitch