5.10a, Trad, Sport, TR
San Luis Obispo
California ,United States
"Epidural on P-Wall blends trad and sport climbing into a compact, well-protected single pitch. With clean rock and two key crux sections, this 5.10a route offers an accessible yet technical challenge for climbers dialing in their edge work."
Epidural offers climbers a focused stretch of vertical challenge on the P-Wall, just off Bishop Peak in San Luis Obispo’s Central Coast. This route blends trad and sport climbing into a single pitch that demands both careful gear management and crisp movement. At 65 feet, the climb unfolds on clean, solid rock where good handholds maintain a steady rhythm throughout. The wall’s surface is free of excessive vegetation or loose stone, allowing you to place protection confidently and move efficiently. Your first real test arrives early: a crux sequence before you even clip the first bolt—a sharp reminder that the climb doesn’t ease up quickly. After that, the line relaxes its hold briefly before pressing forward to a steeper section that tightens the grip once more following the third bolt. Here, the wall leans in and challenges your technique with steeper angles and smaller holds, demanding precision and steady feet. The line ends at anchors shared with the adjacent Spring Route, highlighting how this pocket of rock forms a tight cluster of quality sport and trad climbs. With six bolts securing most of the route and a useful 1.5-inch cam placement between the second and third bolts, this climb balances safety with the need for thoughtful gear placement. The rating of 5.10a reflects the climb’s technical demands without being intimidating, making Epidural suitable for climbers looking to sharpen their skills on mixed protection. Approaching the wall is straightforward, with a quick access trail off the main Bishop Peak paths that cuts your approach time and allows for ample warm-up on nearby routes. The P-Wall area itself lends a clear vantage point of the coastal hills and, on sunny days, offers enough shade in the afternoon to help cool your skin as you clip bolts or rack up gear. To make the most of your trip here, plan for early morning starts in warmer months to beat the heat and keep hydration nearby as shade is limited early in the day. Thanks to its approachable length and quality protection, Epidural strikes a balance between engaging moves and practical fine-tuning of trad skills. It’s a rewarding introduction to the variety Bishop Peak’s climbing scene has to offer, wrapped in a natural setting that encourages focus and flow.
Watch your feet on the steeper section following the third bolt; the holds shrink slightly and demand deliberate placement. While bolts are well-placed, ensure your cam in the middle section is well set, as protection options tighten briefly. In wet or early morning dew conditions, the rock can feel slick—wait for dry surfaces to climb securely.
Start early to avoid direct sun on the wall in warmer months.
Bring a 1.5-inch cam for the secure placement between bolts two and three.
Hydrate well; shade on the wall comes later in the afternoon.
Use approach trails that shortcut from Bishop Peak parking to save time.
The route features six bolts complemented by one optional 1.5-inch cam placed confidently between the second and third bolts, balancing fixed protection with trad placements for security along the climb.
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