"Epic In A Bottle offers a crisp, 70-foot sport climb on California’s Redwood Coast. Sharp holds and well-spaced bolts create a mental puzzle where precision rules, rewarding climbers ready for a 5.10a challenge with clear protection and striking surroundings."
Epic In A Bottle stakes its claim on the left edge of the Upper Shooting Gallery, a compact but demanding sport route that challenges climbers with sharp holds and precise movement. From the first clip, the climb demands attention—each bolt spaced carefully to test your judgment and endurance. With six bolts protecting 70 feet of vertical terrain, this route balances the thrill of heady climbing with the reassurance of well-placed anchors. The rock’s texture is characteristically solid, the edges sharp enough to command a rigorously practiced foot, while some holds hide in plain sight, requiring a steady eye and dynamic approach to read the sequence.
Approaching from The Boardwalk, Epic In A Bottle places itself front and center, making it an accessible target for climbers eager to test their mettle without an extended approach. The climb’s character hinges on its moderate runouts paired with a clear bolt line; if the climb feels more exposed than it should, it’s a sign you’ve missed one of these carefully positioned bolts. This subtle mental game of trusting the protection ups the intensity without compromising safety.
Though just a single pitch, this line packs plenty of interest, with a technical crux near the mid-route section that rewards precise footwork and controlled breathing. The route’s PG13 rating reflects a playful mix of challenge and calculated risk, perfect for climbers ready to step up their sport climbing experience without tipping into extremes.
Located in the Redwood Coast region of California, the Upper Shooting Gallery sits amid a rugged landscape marked by thick forest and sweeping coastal views, a reminder of the wild beauty outside the climbing sequences. The setting provides a quiet sanctuary where climbers can feel the pulse of the ocean breeze mingling with the steady rhythm of chalked fingers and clipped draws. Late afternoons bring cool shade to the wall, making post-work climbs comfortable even in summer’s heat.
Gear-wise, expect to draw six quickdraws for the bolts and be prepared for a two-bolt anchor at the top. The anchor lacks rap rings, so bring slings or a personal extension setup for safe descent. The approach itself is short but intermittent with uneven footing, calling for sturdy shoes and a measured pace to keep legs fresh before you start climbing.
With its approachable length, straightforward protection, and tactical demands, Epic In A Bottle offers an engaging adventure for climbers working their 5.10a skills. It invites thoughtful movement over brute strength, rewarding those who climb with both heart and head. Whether you’re ticking off a project or pushing your limits, this route stands as a direct, purposeful slice of Redwood Coast climbing—not a climb for casual exploration, but a focused opportunity to engage deeply with the rock and the surroundings.
Watch your bolt clips carefully; the route’s protection can feel stretched if you miss a clip, increasing risk. The anchor chain lacks rap rings, so ensure you have proper gear for descent. The approach trail is uneven and can be slippery after rain, so footwear with good grip is essential.
Approach via The Boardwalk for the shortest and most straightforward access.
Pay close attention to bolt positions; missing bolts can turn the climb into a full runout unexpectedly.
Late afternoon climbs offer cooler temperatures and shaded rock surfaces.
Bring sturdy footwear and watch footing on the uneven approach trail.
Six well-spaced bolts protect the route to a two-bolt anchor without rap rings. Bring six quickdraws and personal slings for lowering or rappelling.
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