Entrance Exam in Yosemite National Park’s Lower Merced River Canyon offers a gritty trad climbing experience for those seeking to sharpen their skills amid one of California’s most iconic alpine backdrops. Spanning three pitches and roughly 200 feet, this route demands both technical finesse and mental focus. From the moment you set off, the climb pulls you into a rugged dance with the granite—a series of awkward yet compelling moves around jutting blocks interrupt the chimney sections that define much of the route.

The chimney sections are the heart of the challenge here, requiring wide gear placements and steady footwork on uneven holds. The rock itself has a weathered texture that provides solid friction but also calls for careful balance, especially as you navigate the occasional runouts. While officially rated 5.9, climbers often remark that this climb feels closer to 5.10, especially because of the demanding sequences where you must trust your placements and body positioning.

Protection is a key consideration: Entrance Exam favors a thoughtful rack. You'll want to bring a full set of nuts, focused cams in the 1.5 to 10-inch range, with a couple of larger pieces for the chimney runouts—extra-wide cams come highly recommended. As the route isn’t extensively bolted, self-reliant gear placements keep safety in your hands, reinforcing the route's status as a solid training ground for more formidable Yosemite classics like the Steck-Salathe.

The approach rewards your effort before you even reach the climb. Setting foot in Yosemite Valley’s Lower Merced River Canyon gives a sense of wilderness framed by towering granite walls and the steady murmur of the river daring you forward. Expect a short but rugged trail with uneven terrain, adequate for seasoned hikers and those prepared with sturdy boots. From the highway entrance station, the route access is straightforward but demands attention to the natural obstacles common to the valley’s rugged floor.

Timing your ascent is crucial for comfort and success. The north-facing aspects of the walls here provide shade for much of the day, making spring and fall the preferred seasons when temperatures stay moderate and rock temperatures are comfortable for finger friction. Summers bring warming sun, particularly on the exposed sections, while winter climbs pose challenges with cold, damp rock and shorter daylight hours.

Descent is simple but requires focus: climbers rappel using two ropes (50m or 60m each), lowering themselves carefully down the granite face to the base. No straightforward walk-off exists, so having solid rappel skills and double rope knowledge is essential to exit smoothly and safely.

Entrance Exam combines the raw demands of traditional climbing with the undeniably inspiring atmosphere of Yosemite National Park. It offers a practical yet invigorating experience, perfect for climbers looking to test their skills against the granite giants. Whether you’re aiming to hone your chimney techniques or sharpen your gear placement efficiency, this route stands as both a challenge and a chance to engage deeply with one of the world’s foremost climbing destinations.