HomeClimbingEnter the Dragon

Enter the Dragon Trad Climb at Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms,California ,United States
offwidth
wide crack
trad
single pitch
desert
training route
Grade: 5.9
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Enter the Dragon
Aspect
South Facing

Enter the Dragon

5.9, Trad

Twentynine Palms

California ,United States

Overview

"Enter the Dragon was a one-pitch trad climb in Joshua Tree offering serious offwidth practice. Though lost to rockfall, its legacy lives on as a benchmark for wide crack technique in the desert environment."

Enter the Dragon Trad Climb at Joshua Tree

Though now lost to time and nature's unpredictability, Enter the Dragon was once a striking challenge for crack enthusiasts in Joshua Tree National Park's Gunsmoke Area. This single-pitch trad climb stretched about 40 feet along a pronounced offwidth and chimney system, demanding steady technique and steadfast resolve. The wide crack beckoned climbers to refine skills essential for more committing climbs, testing their ability to maneuver and secure protection in spacious holds where smaller gear simply wouldn’t fit. Located just right of the renowned Gunsmoke Traverse, it carved a niche for those wanting serious offwidth practice without the commitment of long routes.

The approach to this climb was straightforward, making it a popular training ground for climbers preparing for demanding wide climbs elsewhere, such as the notorious Epinepherine at Red Rocks. The route itself was rough and raw, its crooked features alive with the textures of desert stone warmed by the California sun. Gripping the crack, climbers would feel the rock’s gritty embrace, the air dry and perfumed faintly with creosote from nearby desert flora. The setting invited both focus and quiet appreciation, with intermittent winds carrying sharp, rattling sounds across the boulders.

Protection was a challenge here—while a few large cams might find placements, much of the security depended on the climber's skill at wide crack protection. This gave the route a rugged authenticity, demanding respect and care. For those honing their crack climbing abilities, the route promised practical experience in securing gear that doesn’t fit neatly, an essential skill for trad alpinists and desert specialists alike.

Although Enter the Dragon no longer exists physically due to a significant rockfall in 2003, the memory remains vivid among locals and visiting climbers. Its spirit lingers in the Gunsmoke Area’s harsh granite and the lingering thrill of mastering wide cracks. Climbers seeking similar challenges must look elsewhere in Joshua Tree's extensive portfolio, where opportunities to test hands and gear against the desert’s vertical puzzles abound.

Planning a climb here or in the surrounding area? Prepare for heat, uneven terrain, and limited shade. Durable footwear with crisp edging and gloves for crack protection are advisable. Carry plenty of water and plan your climb for early morning or late afternoon to avoid the harshest sun. Familiarity with offwidth protection techniques makes the experience safer and more rewarding, allowing you to focus on the rhythm and flow of movement within the challenging canyon of stone. Whether training for future projects or savoring the desert’s raw, elemental climbs, the area invites you to engage deeply with the rock, wind, and light that only Joshua Tree delivers.

Climber Safety

The rockfall in 2003 erased this route, emphasizing the desert’s shifting nature. When climbing in this area, watch for loose rock, especially on chimney and offwidth climbs, and always test your holds and gear placements carefully.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach early morning or late afternoon to avoid intense desert heat.

Bring plenty of water and sun protection; shade is minimal.

Use gloves or tape for crack protection on hands.

Practice large cam placements before attempting wide cracks here.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Enter the Dragon offered a solid challenge with a stiff crux on the offwidth section. The rating felt straightforward in technical terms, but the wide crack’s physical demands and tricky protection placements raised the effort level beyond a typical 5.9. Climbers looking for a similar test of wide crack skills might compare it to Red Rocks’ Epinepherine.

Gear Requirements

A few large cams may be usable, but much of this route required placing wide gear creatively. Offwidth-specific protection skills were essential.

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Tags

offwidth
wide crack
trad
single pitch
desert
training route