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Energon Cube: A Raw Trad Challenge on the Buick Rocks Second Buttress

Lyons, Colorado United States
hand cracks
flaky rock
crumbly
short pitch
trad
mental challenge
east-facing
hand jams
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Energon Cube
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Energon Cube tackles a short but gritty trad pitch on Buick Rocks’ Second Buttress, combining solid hand jams with crumbly flakes that challenge your trust in the rock. Perfect for climbers who seek a raw, technical experience with a mental edge."

Energon Cube: A Raw Trad Challenge on the Buick Rocks Second Buttress

Energon Cube offers an intense, short trad climb that blends moments of solid hand jams with sections of precarious, crumbly rock. Located on the Second Buttress of the Buick Rocks near Longmont Reservoir, this route demands attention—not only for its technical moves but for the way the rock tests your resolve with every hold.

The climb begins with a right-facing corner that immediately warns you with loose flakes underfoot, almost daring you to trust them. At the base, a small altar of candles and offerings hints at the silent conversation climbers have with this fragile rock, perhaps a hope for steadier conditions. Moving upwards, you enter the route’s strongest section: two parallel hand cracks that provide secure, satisfying jams and a fleeting breath of stability amidst the otherwise insecure terrain.

As you approach the top, the climb turns more complex. The rock around the bulge to the right becomes noticeably less reliable, introducing an uneasy crux where confidence and careful footwork trump brute strength. The gritty “kitty litter” rock there doesn’t just demand physical effort—it challenges mental grit, reminding you that not every hold is trustworthy. After surmounting the bulge, the route eases into a series of ledges, where you can set up a belay and prepare for descent.

The descent options extend the adventure: you can scramble off the back of the formation, but the safer and smoother choice is to hand traverse right to connect with the Unknown Face route and rappel to the ground. This exit strategy underscores the interconnected nature of Buick Rocks’ climbs and offers a chance to explore beyond the single pitch.

Situated within the Longmont Reservoir Area, this climb sits amidst rugged canyons and the steady rush of the North Fork St. Vrain River, which hums below like a persistent challenge. The terrain is as raw as the route itself, with river currents pushing forward outside while you contend with the unstable flakes and cracks overhead. The nearby town of Lyons ensures you’re never far from civilization, but out here, nature commands respect.

Preparation is key to success on Energon Cube. Bring a rack that covers small to moderate cams, specifically sizes SR to 3.5, to protect the hand cracks and manage placements where natural protection is hard to find. Given the questionable rock quality in spots, testing each placement carefully and moving deliberately will save both gear and nerves.

Climbing in cooler, stable weather is preferable—warm or wet conditions only amplify the fragility of the rock and make the crumbly sections more hazardous. As the wall faces eastward, early daylight allows you to start on solid footing before the sun shifts. Hydrate well and wear footwear with precision edging to maximize your grip on the flaky holds. Approach trails are moderately clear but expect some uneven terrain leading to the buttress; allow 20–30 minutes from the nearest parking area.

Energon Cube is not just a climb; it’s a lesson in balancing risk and reward on imperfect stone. For climbers ready to engage with rock that demands respect and adaptability, this route offers a rewarding, tactile connection with the canyon’s raw edges and the persistent energy of the St. Vrain.

Climber Safety

Loose flakes and crumbly rock around the bulge require extra vigilance. Helmets are essential, and slow, deliberate footwork reduces risk of dislodging debris. Avoid climbing when wet or after heavy rain to minimize slipping hazards and rock instability.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Climb early in the day to take advantage of shade and cooler rock.

Double-check all gear placements due to loose flakes and crumbly sections.

Use precise edging footwear to handle flaky holds with confidence.

Plan your descent by traversing right to the Unknown Face route for a secure rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels fair but slightly softened by the route’s short length. The crux is less about physical difficulty and more about negotiating the uncertain rock quality around the bulge near the top. Climbers familiar with nearby Buick Rock routes will recognize the need to combine technical hand jams with cautious movement, making this climb a test of calm and control rather than pure power.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack ranging from small cams to 3.5" to accommodate the variable crack sizes. Be prepared for some placements on flaky, less reliable rock, demanding thoughtful gear placement and steady hands.

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Tags

hand cracks
flaky rock
crumbly
short pitch
trad
mental challenge
east-facing
hand jams