"This short trad route in northern Quebec offers an inviting start for climbers new to gear placements. Featuring two small ledges and a crack in a dihedral, it’s perfectly pitched for beginners eager to explore trad climbing with hands-on beta and manageable protection."
En botte à pine welcomes climbers stepping into the world of traditional climbing with an approachable but rewarding 30-foot ascent. Situated within the rugged, quietly demanding landscape of Abitibi-Temiscamingue in northern Quebec, this route offers a chance to engage directly with the rock’s natural features: two modest ledges and a clean crack running through a subtle dihedral. The route’s gentle pitch and straightforward movements create an ideal playground for those learning to place gear or wanting to build confidence while top-roping. The rock surface interacts with the light breeze and the changing sky, as if inviting climbers to feel the pulse of the cliff itself.
Find the anchor point on the face just to the right after finishing the second ledge—a reminder that even beginner routes have their own quirks to master. Protection is standard trad gear, with nothing overly large needed, allowing beginners to focus on gear placements without intimidation. The approach cuts through quiet forest trails that soften the transition from earthbound rhythm to vertical focus, and the crisp northern air carries the quiet challenge of this unassuming line.
Planning your climb here means preparing for a short hike into the area and considering the weather, as the fragile balance of rock and forest can quickly alter grip and footing. Wear supportive, slightly stiff-soled climbing shoes to feel the subtle texture of the crack, and bring light rack essentials to keep your pack agile. Early morning climbs catch cool shadows, while midday sun warms the rock face without overwhelming heat.
This climb strikes a practical balance: it invites cautious exploration without sacrificing the thrill and learning curve that comes from placing your own protection on real rock. En botte à pine stands as a gateway route—not just up a single dihedral, but toward the larger world of trad climbing adventures awaiting beyond the trees and along the granite walls of Abitibi-Temiscamingue.
While the route is straightforward, anchors after the second ledge need double-checking as they sit on a slightly exposed face. Take care on the approach in wet conditions due to slick patches on trail rock.
The approach trail is short but can be slippery when wet; wear sturdy boots.
Morning climbs bring cooler temperatures and better friction on the rock.
Keep your rack minimal to stay light and agile on this quick pitch.
Check anchor placement carefully after reaching the second ledge to ensure safety.
Bring a standard trad rack with small to medium cams and nuts—no large pieces necessary. Focus on practicing solid placements in the crack and above the ledges.
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