5.10a PG13, Trad
Truckee
California ,United States
"Empty Overgo blends sustained crack climbing with airy run-outs on Donner Summit’s Black Wall. This four-pitch trad route offers a compelling challenge framed by alpine views and technical demands."
Empty Overgo offers a focused and compelling route for trad climbers seeking a blend of technical hand cracks and adventurous run-outs near the bustling I-80 corridor. Perched on the left side of the Black Wall at Donner Summit, this four-pitch climb challenges with a rhythm that moves from direct and tight cracks to more exposed climbing atop a striking arete. The approach through a high-altitude landscape feels immediate and wild, with cool mountain air pressing down as the granite walls rise sharply above the Lake Tahoe region. The first pitch is a solid 5.9 effort that ascends the Rat's Tooth, requiring calm heads and solid technique to maneuver its distinct hand crack to a bolted anchor station. Moving upward, the second pitch confronts climbers with a steeper, slightly overhanging hand crack known as Hungover Hangover—a brief but powerful 5.10a section demanding precise finger placement and body tension. The fixed anchors here provide a secure belay, easing the mental load before the third pitch’s contrasting character.
Pitch three shifts leftward to tackle the Empty Sky arete, where exposure intensifies and protection spaces widen. At 5.10a and somewhat run-out, this segment gives a real sense of commitment and requires confidence in slab and face skills. Though bolts are sparse, small gear placements up to 3.5 inches offer some security amid the airy traverse and upward moves toward the Lizard Ledge. Finally, the fourth pitch is a more relaxed finish between 5.6 and 5.8, with multiple options for the climb’s conclusion, allowing climbers to tailor their descent according to energy and comfort levels.
Beyond technical moves, Empty Overgo rewards with sweeping views of the Tahoe basin and the distant Sierra crest. The granite’s texture shifts with sun and shadow, the rock cool and tactile in the morning, warming to solid friction by midday. This route demands attention to gear selection and mental focus but offers a gratifying balance of directness and bold climbing. It’s accessible for strong intermediate climbers ready to push into sustained 5.10 territory and those seeking a multi-pitch adventure framed by the high-altitude charm of Donner Summit.
Watch for run-outs on pitch three above Hungover Hangover; protection opportunities are limited and gear placements require careful attention. The granite is solid but can be abrasive to skin—finger tape is recommended. Approach trails can be slippery when wet, so plan for safe footing on the descent.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the Black Wall’s south-facing slabs.
Wear sticky-soled shoes with good smearing ability for the Empty Sky arete.
Prepare for run-out sections on pitch three; practice headpointing the moves beforehand if possible.
Hydrate well before and during the climb; high elevation can sap energy faster than expected.
Bring a standard trad rack to 3.5 inches with emphasis on hand and finger-sized protection. Fixed anchors exist on every pitch, easing belay transitions. The Empty Sky pitch above Hungover Hangover features two bolts complemented by small gear placements that require careful selection and solid placement technique.
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