"Empire Strikes Back presents a balanced blend of traditional crack climbing and sustained bolted face moves. Set in the coastal cliffs near Powell River, this two-pitch route offers technical challenges and reliable protection, making it an essential line for climbers ready to push their skills."
Empire Strikes Back carves a compelling line across the rugged walls of Powell River’s climbing landscape. This route challenges climbers with a blend of traditional and sport climbing tactics that demand precision and patience. Beginning on a diagonal crack that confidently splits the face to the left of the more famous Star Wars route, the first pitch encourages thoughtful gear placement and measured movement. This 15-meter section, rated at 5.9, offers a satisfying crack climb that leads to a secure gear belay. The natural rock here offers solid texture, inviting hands to grip tight edges and feet to seek out subtle holds.
The second pitch shifts the experience further into technical terrain. A short finger crack dihedral opens the way, ushering climbers onto an exposed face peppered with eleven bolts. Navigating upward past knobs that almost dare you to test your balance, this 40-meter segment rolls into a sustained effort rated 5.11a. The bolts provide confidence, but the moves demand precise footwork and controlled power. The route then merges seamlessly with the third pitch of Star Wars, or offers a direct rappel option for those ready to descend.
Set within the striking coastal environment of British Columbia, the rock walls rise sharply against the sky, framed by the thick green forests spreading out below. The climb's proximity to Powell River means you can expect a moderate approach, with the latitude and longitude (49.9269 N, -124.0931 W) placing you in an area known for its mix of gentle wilderness and rugged climbing terrain. The climb’s character is technical and engaging rather than raw endurance, making it ideal for climbers eager to test both gear skills and face climbing technique.
For those considering this route, gear choices are critical. Empire Strikes Back requires a rack that covers from tiny cams to larger pieces up to 2 inches, with extra finger-sized cams reserved for the gear belay at the end of the first pitch. Two 60-meter ropes are recommended to safely navigate the pitches and rappel.
The mood here leans toward focused effort rather than heady exposure. You feel the rock’s stories under your fingertips as the climb pushes you upward, each sequence a steady progression of technical movements. Climbers can find a balanced thrill in its well-protected sections paired with the natural challenge of crack work and face climbing. This route suits those drawn to multilength routes that blend traditional protection with bolted security, requiring both a sharp eye for gear placement and confidence in clipping bolts.
Timing your climb for late spring through early fall guarantees the most stable rock and drier conditions. The face tends to hold sun late into the afternoon, which makes afternoon ascents rewarding and perfect for enjoying warmed stone grips. The descent involves rappelling down the shared anchors or continuing along the adjacent Star Wars pitches. It’s essential to double-check your ropes and anchors during descent, as the route’s mix of bolts and gear can create complex rappel stations.
Empire Strikes Back offers a taste of coastal climbing adventure—engaging, approachable, and technical. Whether you're sharpening your crack skills or testing steady movement on face holds, this climb invites you to meet the rock with both respect and drive.
Watch for runouts on the first pitch’s diagonal crack where gear can be trickier to place, especially on small cams. The bolted face offers protection but expect sustained sequences that require steady movement. Always double-check rappel anchors and bring two ropes for a safe descent.
Start early to take advantage of afternoon sun warming the face.
Double-check gear placements on the first pitch’s diagonal crack for secure protection.
Carry two 60m ropes to access rappel stations without complications.
Bring sticky shoes for precision on the bolted face in pitch two.
Bring a full rack of cams from very small sizes up to 2 inches, plus extra finger-sized cams for the gear belay. Two 60-meter ropes are necessary to manage rope drag and rappel safely.
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