HomeClimbingEmpire Of Dirt

Empire Of Dirt

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
offwidth
single pitch
trad gear
granite
north wall
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Empire Of Dirt
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Empire Of Dirt offers a gritty trad climb on Squamish’s North Wall, combining finger cracks, offwidth challenges, and a solid anchor system. It’s a concise, rewarding route for traditional climbers seeking variety and dependable protection in the heart of British Columbia’s granite."

Empire Of Dirt

Empire Of Dirt stands as a solid offering on the North Wall, inviting climbers into a gritty and varied trad experience that demands both technical finesse and bold moves. The route begins in a tight corner, snug but promising, where fingers find subtle holds before leading into a shallow alcove hidden beneath a brief offwidth roof. This initial section tests your ability to negotiate conflicting holds in a confined space, rewarding focus and careful body positioning.

From there, the climb expands into a long, clean corner and crack system that runs above this alcove, blending longer reaches with steady placements. The crack asks for solid rack preparation as fingers give way to hands, and then to offwidth techniques before reaching a stable stance where you can regroup. For climbers still carrying larger cams after reaching the first anchor, an enticing but cautious option lies just beyond: a short offwidth stretch that will push offwidth skills under the challenge of slightly damp rock.

Descending is straightforward but requires attention to rope management. A single 70-meter rope suffices for a rappel from the lower anchor, making it an efficient getaway, while the upper anchor calls for two rappels if you choose to top out higher. Above the upper anchor, the enticing corner appears less hospitable than it looks — persistently wet, it warns against temptation. Adjacent flakes lean precariously, reminding climbers to balance ambition with prudence.

Empire Of Dirt demands a rack loaded with cams from small .5 up to large 6-inch pieces, reflecting the variety of crack sizes encountered. Protection placements are generally reliable, but the nature of the offwidths and occasional flakes encourages thorough gear assessment and a conservative approach to security. This route, with just one pitch stretching 150 feet, provides an accessible yet satisfying taste of the iconic North Wall’s rugged character.

Squamish’s North Walls are known for their granite’s quality and technical crack climbs, and this route doesn’t disappoint. The granite’s texture offers solid friction, while exposure to the towering wall and distant sound of the forest below engage the senses throughout the climb. Available year-round but best tackled in dry conditions, Empire Of Dirt challenges climbers to combine fingerwork, hand jams, and offwidth sequences within a compact but demanding line.

Prepare with comfortable, stiff-soled shoes to tackle diverse crack widths, bring plenty of tape for finger protection, and pace your efforts as the route calls for a balance between rest and steady upward momentum. Hydrate well before starting—approach and climb will require steady energy. Approaching the route involves accessible, well-marked trails winding through forested terrain, allowing you to settle into the climb with an easy, familiar approach. This line, with its blend of technical interest and solid protection, makes Empire Of Dirt a must-try for climbers wanting a straightforward but engaging crack route in the heart of Squamish’s legendary climbing scene.

Climber Safety

The flakes above the upper anchor are unstable and the corner tends to stay wet, so avoid climbing beyond the established anchors. Be mindful of loose rock and always double-check placements on the offwidth sections.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Bring tape to protect fingers and hands on the offwidth sections.

Use stiff-soled climbing shoes for better jams and edge control.

Avoid the upper corner above the higher anchor—it's often wet and unstable.

A single 70m rope suffices for rappelling from the lower anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At a 5.9, Empire Of Dirt represents a solid, accessible trad climb that feels true to its grade. The technical crux lies in the offwidth roof section, which adds an extra layer of challenge beyond pure finger cracks. Compared to other local classics, it’s straightforward but demands focus on offwidth movement and crack techniques.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack with cams from .5 up to 6 inches is essential to protect the varied cracks and offwidths encountered on this route.

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Tags

finger crack
offwidth
single pitch
trad gear
granite
north wall