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Elroy Was Here: Trad Climbing in Wonderland of Rocks

Joshua Tree, California United States
trad
5.9
single pitch
desert granite
boulder problem finish
rappel descent
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Elroy Was Here
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Elroy Was Here is a compact trad climb tucked into the heart of Joshua Tree’s Wonderland of Rocks. With a challenging V1 boulder finish and steady 5.9 face and crack climbing, this 100-foot route offers a rewarding desert ascent with solid protection and broad views."

Elroy Was Here: Trad Climbing in Wonderland of Rocks

Elroy Was Here offers a straightforward but compelling introduction to trad climbing in the rugged expanse of Wonderland of Rocks, deep within Joshua Tree National Park. This 100-foot route ascends the face immediately left of a sharp gully named Montague Jetson, moving steadily upwards to join the anchor on Cogswell’s Cosmic Cogs. The upper section challenges climbers with a V1 boulder problem that demands both body tension and precise footwork, blending technical finesse with the park’s signature rough rock texture.

The approach to Elroy Was Here holds a raw desert charm, as peeling granite surfaces catch the late morning sun and the surrounding rock formations stand silent, their cracked faces whispering tales of countless ascents. Climbers feel the heat of the sun softened by intermittent breezes that corral the desert air around loose stones and scruffy bushes. This climb demands respect for its solid route-finding, exposure, and friction-dependent moves on textured stone.

As a trad climb graded 5.9, Elroy Was Here strikes a balance between approachable and exciting. It’s well suited for those eager to push into more sustained crack and face climbing in a classic desert environment, where protection placements can range from straightforward to careful micro-placements. A single 60-meter rope is sufficient to handle the ascent and a single rappel, easing the descent and minimizing the carry on the approach.

Climbing here requires careful preparation: sturdy shoes with sticky rubber will track the subtle micro-edges and tiny footholds, and a full rack of cams, particularly small to medium sizes, is recommended to manage the varied protection opportunities on the route. Joshua Tree’s high desert environment also calls for ample hydration and timing your climb to avoid the strongest midday sun, ideally starting early or targeting late afternoon for cooler granite encounters.

Experienced climbers familiar with neighboring routes will appreciate Elroy Was Here as a solid option to stretch technical skills without excessive length or complexity. Its position within Wonderland South grants expansive views across the valley, punctuated by the stark contrast of blue sky and rough rock, grounding the experience in the vastness of Joshua Tree’s climbing landscape.

In all, Elroy Was Here is a focused trad climb that blends a desert granite vibe with thoughtful challenge and accessible length, perfect for climbers mapping their progression into classic Joshua Tree routes.

Climber Safety

The rappel requires a full 60-meter rope for safe descent in one go; anchors are reliable but always double-check placements. Watch for loose rocks near the approach gully and remain cautious of sun exposure during peak hours in this desert environment.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late to avoid the harsh midday sun on the rock face.

Hydrate well; Joshua Tree’s dry climate can dehydrate quickly.

Pack a 60m rope to rappel safely in one go.

Use sticky rubber shoes to maximize grip on textured granite.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels true to grade with a boulder problem at V1 near the top that adds a distinct crux, pushing the technical challenge slightly above straightforward 5.9 faces in the area. Compared to surrounding Joshua Tree climbs, it offers a balanced mix of face and crack climbing without stepping into harder territory, making it an excellent next step for trad climbers progressing beyond beginner lines.

Gear Requirements

A single 60m rope will cover both ascent and rappel. Bring a full trad rack focusing on small to medium cams for varied placements, as well as sticky climbing shoes for friction on the desert granite.

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Tags

trad
5.9
single pitch
desert granite
boulder problem finish
rappel descent