ELO at South Formation Button Rock

Lyons, Colorado USA
crack climbing
finger crack
runout
single pitch
west-facing
trad
Colorado climbing
river canyon
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
ELO
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"ELO offers a concise, technical trad climb on South Formation’s west face, mixing hands-on crack climbing with runout exposure. Perfect for climbers who appreciate precise gear placements and a gritty, focused experience near Colorado’s scenic St. Vrain River."

ELO at South Formation Button Rock

ELO offers a focused trad climb on the west face of South Formation at Button Rock, lying along the rugged North Fork of the St. Vrain River in Colorado’s St. Vrain Canyons. From the start on Electric Sky ledge, you quickly engage with two solid pods that guide your hands toward a crack that begins broad but narrows sharply from hand to finger size. The climbing demands steady balance and careful foot placement, particularly where the crack tightens and forces a subtle, off-balance maneuver. Below the final section, the crack closes up and exposes a short runout, testing both your nerve and protection strategy before the climb smooths out into an easier scramble to the chains. Though ratings mark this route at 5.9, the crux lies in the transitions and the precise gear placements required to manage the narrowing crack. A large #4.5 cam can be useful for key placements, though it's not mandatory.

The setting amplifies the experience: the St. Vrain River pulses below in defiant motion, urging you to climb with intent and care. The approach carries a palpable quietness broken only by rustling trees and the occasional call of wildlife, embedding the route within a steadily wild, unspoiled canyon landscape. Button Rock reveals itself as a destination for climbers ready to test traditional skills in a place where nature’s forces — sun, rock, and river — command respect.

For planning, prepare for a single pitch that climbs roughly 80 feet. The rock texture is solid but not forgiving of careless gear placements, so a range of cams to fit the tapering crack is recommended. Since the climb sits on a west-facing wall, afternoons bring warmer sun and light can be strong, making early starts favorable in warmer months. Remember to carry enough water; the approach and climb demand focused energy and hydration.

Experienced trad climbers seeking a compact, engaging challenge will find ELO a rewarding line. It balances technical movement with exposure and subtle protection challenges. The descent is straightforward but demands careful attention to terrain after leaving the belay chains. Overall, ELO blends natural beauty with technical rigor, making it a solid addition to your Colorado climbing plan.

Climber Safety

The runout section requires extra caution—missing a solid piece here can lead to longer falls. The rock is solid but can be unforgiving with loose flakes near the crack’s top end. Always double-check placements and avoid climbing if rock is wet or after heavy rains.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.

Bring a full rack of cams, emphasizing finger to hand sizes.

Hydrate well—water sources are limited near the approach trail.

Scout the runout section carefully and place solid pro before committing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, ELO feels true to its grade but demands precision. The crux centers on managing a narrowing crack and balancing awkward moves near a short runout. It’s a manageable challenge, similar in character to classic finger cracks found in nearby Front Range climbs, with protection opportunities that reward thoughtful placements rather than brute strength.

Gear Requirements

Protection relies on cams sized for a tapering crack—bringing a large #4.5 cam can be helpful though it’s not strictly necessary. Supplement with smaller units catering to hand and finger sizes to cover the more delicate sections.

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Tags

crack climbing
finger crack
runout
single pitch
west-facing
trad
Colorado climbing
river canyon