Ellingwood Chimney stands as a historic landmark on the west face of Bishop Rock in Colorado's Cathedral Spires area. First ascended in 1924, it was once the most challenging climb in the United States, a true milestone that reflects the daring spirit of early climbers like Ellingwood himself. Today, this two-pitch trad route combines a strong connection to climbing history with a practical challenge that rewards careful preparation and steady technique.

The approach to Ellingwood Chimney situates you amid the rugged high country near South Platte, with cool mountain air brushing your face and the scent of pine carried on shifting breezes. Underfoot, the trail is solid but requires close attention to its rocky, uneven terrain, leading up to the base of Bishop Rock. This climb demands respect for both nature and timing: it crosses over an active eagle’s nest, so ascents must be avoided during nesting closures to protect these majestic birds.

Pitch one invites you into the chimney’s constricted embrace. The rock here can be crumbly, especially during the first 50 feet, so climb cautiously and place slings around a substantial chockstone for secure protection. The chimney dares you upward with a physical, hands-in-rock challenge as you navigate over the eagle’s nest, remembering to keep your movements deliberate and quiet. Above this section, you’ll find a fixed pin marking the start of the second pitch, offering a moment to breathe and prepare for what lies next.

Pitch two guides you along a crack trending right, then leads into a cavernous chimney that expands around you with timeworn granite walls telling stories of the past. The climb here feels more open but requires steady footwork as you ascend the right-hand side of the chimney. Pressing onward, you step out onto a large ledge — a brief resting point before tackling the capped boulder above. The summit crack demands careful protection; a single aged spinning bolt holds most of the security, but placing a 4- or 5-inch cam behind it provides much needed peace of mind before the final moves push you to the top. The anchors await on the right summit, though many climbers choose an alternate, more secure rappel route.

Descent involves a double rope rappel to the ground, with an intermediate station located in the adjacent Bishop Chimney about 80 feet above the base. Many climbers avoid using the questionable anchors on the main ledge, opting instead to move left to more reliable options. Because of the loose rock, the eagle's nest, and the historic bolt placements, climbing Ellingwood Chimney calls for a blend of respect, caution, and prepared gear.

This route is a rewarding challenge for seasoned trad climbers who crave not just a technical route but a connection to climbing's pioneering roots. The area’s sparse vegetation, granite texture, and sweeping views of the South Platte combine to create an experience grounded in Colorado’s wild spirit. Timing your climb outside of bird closures and climbing with a partner familiar with anchor uncertainties are key to a safe, memorable outing.

Whether you're drawn by history, technique, or the rugged beauty, Ellingwood Chimney offers a climb that is both an homage to the past and a test for the present. It reminds us that every hold we grasp links us to those who came before, and every step upward is a shared journey through rock, time, and grit.