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Elephantiasis at The Smoke Bluffs: A Steep Trad Challenge in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
hand crack
wet start
steep
single pitch
solid protection
fitness required
Squamish trad
locker jams
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Elephantiasis
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Elephantiasis stands out at The Smoke Bluffs with its steep hand crack and consistent protection. Though the bottom section stays wet, the climb quickly rewards strong hand jams and controlled moves, making it a solid test for trad climbers seeking a single-pitch challenge in Squamish."

Elephantiasis at The Smoke Bluffs: A Steep Trad Challenge in Squamish

Elephantiasis offers a compelling taste of Squamish’s renowned trad climbing scene, set against the rugged backdrop of The Smoke Bluffs. This single-pitch route stretches 100 feet over steep terrain characterized by powerful locker hand jams that demand both strength and deliberate technique. From the moment you step onto the climb, the area asserts itself: the initial ten feet are persistently damp, a challenge that sets a physical and mental tone. While the wet lower section may deter some, the climb quickly settles into a rhythm as you slide gear into solid placements and work your way upward.

The crack line above rewards persistence with bomber protection and gratifying sequences that require tight hand jams and controlled footwork. The steepness ensures consistent engagement, with minimal respite; though several rests are available, they all ask for sustained tension in the core and hands. The rock’s texture, combined with the echo of hoisting yourself upward, invites an intimate dialogue between climber and granite. The humid air from the wet base contrasts with the dryer higher sections, adding a sensory complexity to the ascent.

Located within Squamish’s vibrant climbing community, Elephantiasis balances challenge and safety impressively. The protection is superb throughout, making it an ideal route for climbers developing their trad skills while testing endurance. Gear runners will want a full rack, particularly sizes 1, 2, and 3 cams, to smoothly negotiate the ascending crack’s varying widths. The area’s proximity to town allows for easy access, with straightforward approach trails that wind through forested terrain before you reach the base. Timing your climb for cooler parts of the day can reduce the slickness at the start and enhance grip overall.

For those ready to engage with a route that respects skill but rewards persistence, Elephantiasis is a compelling choice. Its position on The Smoke Bluffs ensures breathtaking views of Squamish’s wild landscapes, with towering evergreens and distant mountain outlines framing your climb. Armed with solid gear knowledge, attention to footing, and a mindset prepared for the wet start, this climb invites both focused effort and reflective appreciation of the granite’s raw character.

Climber Safety

Be prepared for slick conditions on the bottom 10 feet that are almost always wet. This wetness can lead to unexpected slips or gear tricky to place if not attentive. Also, rest spots are limited in nature, so pacing and conserving energy is crucial to avoid premature fatigue.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Prepare for a persistently damp lower 10 feet—wear shoes with good grip and expect slippery conditions there.

Bring a full complement of cams in sizes 1, 2, and 3 for smooth gear placements along the crack.

Start early or later in the day to avoid slippery rock caused by moisture buildup.

Rest positions exist but require core engagement; manage your pump carefully to maintain steady progress.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, Elephantiasis offers a solid challenge with a distinctly physical crux in the sustained locker hand jams. The grade is true to its rating, with a steady pump building due to limited rest comfort. Those familiar with Squamish’s sharper trad cracks will find this climb demanding but accessible, especially when seasoned on similar routes like "The Smoke Bluffs Direct".

Gear Requirements

Bomber protection throughout the route with a rack emphasizing cams sized 1, 2, and 3; placements are reliable and solid even on steeper sections.

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Tags

hand crack
wet start
steep
single pitch
solid protection
fitness required
Squamish trad
locker jams