"Electric Fountain Crack delivers a gritty introduction before revealing a clean, featured 4-inch crack perfect for liebacks and jam climbing. This short but engaging pitch tests patience on its rough lower section and rewards preparation and technique above."
Electric Fountain Crack presents a unique slice of trad climbing just west of one of Boulder’s more commanding rock features, the Lingum pinnacle. Though short at around 80 feet, this climb draws you into a layered experience that moves from a rather unpleasant, grubby lower section into a surprisingly clean and rewarding crack higher up. If you arrive expecting a straightforward pitch, be ready for a shift in character: the first 40 feet demand patience amid vegetated, crumbly rock that can unsettle the confidence of even steady climbers. Pro placements here feel rare and tentative, so the lower section can feel like a test of mental grit more than pure technique.
The crack gradually transforms as you ascend. The middle and upper portions open into a featured 4-inch crack molded for liebacks and jams that favor good rack preparation over brute strength. The climb is low angled enough that awkward, offwidth-style wrestling isn’t essential—your best moves will combine thoughtful footwork and trusting finger locks. A pair of #4 Camalots are prized companions here; they anchor your safety in these cleaner seams, while smaller cams fill in where they fit. This setup is key to feeling secure as you press past the grungier start.
Approaching this route rewards some creativity. The direct approach involves a challenging bushwhack and a loose third-class scramble to the base, which is not recommended for all but the most experienced and confident routefinders. A superior tactic is to use the East Face route to reach an anchor about four pitches up, then rappel down roughly 80 feet to the crack’s top—this gives a safer and more accessible staging area. From here, toproping or rappelling off the crack’s summit anchor is straightforward. The climb concludes atop a narrow, knife-edge ridge anchored by a fixed piton.
Once you reach the summit ridge, the adventure isn't over. Climbers can continue up and around the east side of the summit block to link into the final pitch of the East Face route. This extension offers a tasteful way to tag the summit, rounding out the outing with spectacular views over Boulder’s granite formations and the sweeping Colorado Front Range beyond.
Electric Fountain Crack may not boast the polished allure of the Flatirons’ more famous climbs, but it offers a distinctive challenge to those who appreciate a mix of gritty rock and solid crack climbing. Preparation is essential here: the nature of the lower rock means you’ll want to bring a light rack with plenty of cams in the #1 to #4 range, two #4 Camalots especially, and expect gear hunting early on. Familiarity with loose terrain and a cautious approach will reward you with an engaging pitch secluded from the busier climbs nearby.
In short, Electric Fountain Crack is a brief but memorable outing that balances raw nature and classic crack technique amid Boulder’s iconic cliffs. Whether you’re linking to the East Face or exploring this crack on its own, the climb’s shifting character offers a genuine taste of Colorado’s climbing diversity—offering challenge wrapped in a rugged, real-world setting.
The lower 40 feet feature rotten, vegetated rock with limited safe placements. Avoid climbing this section solo or unprotected. Approach routes involve loose terrain and brush; caution is advised on the descent and ingress.
Approach via the East Face route and rappel from the fourth pitch for safer access.
Bring two #4 Camalots to secure the upper portion of the crack.
Avoid soloing the loose, steep scramble below unless experienced in route finding on unstable terrain.
Rappel anchors are fixed and solid at the top of the crack and the notch north of it.
Light rack including Camalots sized #1 through #4 is essential, with two #4 Camalots highly recommended for the upper crack. Smaller cams fill in tight placements. Expect limited pro opportunities in the grubby lower section.
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