Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingElectric Dylan

Electric Dylan: A Direct Trad Challenge in Angeles National Forest

Los Angeles, California United States
offwidth
finger crack
traverse
multi-pitch
lichen
trad
scramble descent
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Electric Dylan
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Electric Dylan offers a focused trad climb weaving offwidth jams, a lichen-laced finger crack traverse, and a secure but loose belay ledge. Located in Angeles National Forest, this two-pitch route challenges climbers seeking technical cracks close to Los Angeles."

Electric Dylan: A Direct Trad Challenge in Angeles National Forest

Electric Dylan carves a distinct path up Crystal Lake Crag, offering climbers a textured blend of crack climbing and subtle technical moves within the Angeles National Forest. This two-pitch, 120-foot trad route immediately tests your technique with a compelling offwidth jam that demands patience and precision. The climb’s first pitch starts by threading a clean, hand-to-offwidth crack crowned by a short overhanging bulge that forces you to find secure holds and commit fully. As you reach the ledge above, the route shifts character with a delicate traverse right, following a narrow finger crack. This section calls for careful footwork, especially since the lichen scattered across the rock complicates smearing and reduces friction. If you proceed without hesitation, a committing mantle awaits just beyond, requiring focused upper body strength and balance.

The exposure picks up notably on the belay ledge, which contains quite a bit of loose rock—anchoring safely here is paramount. Pitch two eases into a more straightforward scramble, climbing up easy slabs above the belay and past a striking six-foot rock horn that offers a solid natural anchor for rappelling. For those preferring a walk-off, a class 3-4 descent is accessible by heading uphill and following one of the scree ramps southward.

Quality protection gear is essential for this climb. A full rack of cams, particularly several #3 Camalots, equips you to navigate the offwidth and finger crack sections confidently. Webbing and a locking carabiner come in handy for securing the rappel anchor at the top of the climb. A 70-meter rope comfortably accommodates a rappel from pitch two, but be mindful of rope drag during the traverse.

Positioned within the Angeles National Forest, Electric Dylan offers an intimate outdoor experience just a stone’s throw from the urban sprawl of the Los Angeles Basin. This proximity to a metropolitan area makes it an ideal quick escape for climbers looking to blend technical trad challenges with plentiful nature. The route’s rock face faces east, capturing morning sun and providing advantageous conditions before afternoon heat sets in—spring and fall offer the most pleasant climbing windows with cooler air and firmer rock.

Accessing Crystal Lake Crag involves a straightforward approach trail weaving through mixed pine and oak, with a steady upward trend that preps you well for the technical demands ahead. Expect roughly 30 minutes of steady hiking over uneven terrain before reaching the base of the climb at approximately 34.3181 latitude and -117.8491 longitude.

While Electric Dylan may not dazzle with extensive length or over-the-top exposure, it commands respect through its crack sequence, rock texture, and delicate traverse. The route’s varied climbing style and solid protection opportunities invite careful strategy and patience. Climbers should double-check anchor points due to loose rock at the belay, moving cautiously to maintain safety.

Whether you’re refreshing your crack skills or searching for a compelling trad route within reach of Los Angeles, Electric Dylan brings grounded adventure and rewarding moves to your climbing portfolio.

Climber Safety

Loose rock at the belay ledge requires careful assessment and secure anchor building. Be cautious on the lichen-covered traverse where footing can be slippery. The walk-off descent needs attention due to loose scree and class 3-4 terrain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Inspect the belay ledge thoroughly for loose rock before committing to anchors.

Morning climbs catch the wall’s east-facing sun, providing better friction and comfort in cooler temperatures.

Plan for a class 3-4 walk-off ramp heading south if you prefer to avoid the second pitch rappel.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to manage smearing on lichen-coated rock during the traverse.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Graded 5.8, Electric Dylan feels true to its rating with a moderate crux at the lichen-covered traverse that adds subtle complexity. The offwidth demands solid jam technique but doesn't push into harder territory. Compared to nearby routes, it sits comfortably in the moderate trad category, making it approachable but rewarding.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack with cams up to #4 recommended, emphasizing multiple #3 Camalots for optimal placement. Bring 12ft webbing and a locking carabiner to build the rappel anchor atop pitch two. A 70m rope works well for descent.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Electric Dylan and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

offwidth
finger crack
traverse
multi-pitch
lichen
trad
scramble descent