HomeClimbingEl Lado Oscuro de la Luna

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna: Sport Climbing on Peña de Bernal's South Face

Peña de Bernal, Queretaro Mexico
sport climbing
face climbing
multi-pitch
central mexico
bolted
sunny exposure
technical balance
Length: 500 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
El Lado Oscuro de la Luna
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"El Lado Oscuro de la Luna delivers a steep, hand-and-foot-friendly ascent on Peña de Bernal’s South Face. Slightly harder than its neighbor Bernalina, this sport climb combines secure bolting with technical moves that reward balance and precision at around 5.9 difficulty."

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna: Sport Climbing on Peña de Bernal's South Face

El Lado Oscuro de la Luna invites climbers to engage with steep face climbing on the rugged South Face of Peña de Bernal, one of Mexico's most striking monoliths. The route offers a dynamic challenge with its well-featured vertical sections softened just enough by plentiful hand and footholds, making the climb approachable yet satisfying. Unlike its neighbor Bernalina, this route carries a slightly steeper angle that will test your ability to balance power and finesse without feeling brutally overhung. The rock here holds a firm, gritty texture common to Peña de Bernal’s volcanic stone, providing confident friction underfoot and in your grip.

At roughly 500 feet in length, this single-pitch climb is misleading in its brevity—what it lacks in extensive mileage it makes up for in technical nuance and varied climbing moves. Bolts with red hangers, mostly 3/8" with occasional 1/2" placements, secure the route, starting tightly grouped near the base and spacing out as you ascend. You'll find a generous number of draws sufficient here; around 14 should cover your needs while allowing flexibility in gear choices.

South Face’s exposure catches the sun for much of the day, so timing your climb to early morning or late afternoon can prevent the rock from heating under the Central Mexican sun. The approach is manageable, winding through semi-arid terrain typical of the Queretaro region, with clear bearings to the base from the main trail.

While some beta sources suggest the route edges toward 5.10a, many climbers find the 5.9 rating a practical middle ground, noting that it feels a bit softer than initially feared. The crux sections are generally about maintaining steady balance and efficient movement rather than brute strength, making this climb a satisfying option for those comfortable with sport trad climbing who want to push their technique around the 5.9 level without committing to riskier grades.

Safety considerations include careful bolt inspection as spacing becomes wider in higher pitches and awareness of sun exposure on the rock surface. The descent can be made by rappel or a careful downclimb to the approach trail, so ensure that your team is comfortable with both methods. This climb stands as a solid choice for climbers visiting Peña de Bernal looking for a challenge that balances spirited climbing with solid protection on some of Central Mexico’s most imposing rock faces.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of bolt spacing as it opens past the first section—extend runs with additional draws to reduce rope drag and minimize fall risk. Avoid climbing during peak midday heat to prevent grip fatigue and dehydration.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense midday sun on the South Face.

Bring 14 quickdraws to cover bolt placements comfortably.

Check bolts midway as spacing widens higher up.

Plan your descent carefully; rappel anchors or a downclimb are both options.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade reflects a climb that leans more on technique and balance than sheer power. While some local insight nudges it toward 5.10a, climbers often find the route somewhat easier, with crux sections that are sustained but not overly taxing. The vertical but not overhung profile makes this an excellent test for those moving up from lower fifth-class climbs.

Gear Requirements

Route is bolted with red hangers on 3/8" and occasional 1/2" bolts. Starts with tightly spaced bolts near the ground, becoming more spread out higher up. Approximately 14 quickdraws recommended.

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Tags

sport climbing
face climbing
multi-pitch
central mexico
bolted
sunny exposure
technical balance